Do I need to get both?
Driver and passenger side axles? When I was changing my oil, I discovered that my driver side outer cv boot was damaged and there was grease everywhere.
I did a quick search, and the DIY forum has a couple of informative threads about changing out the boot or the whole axle. I was just curious that if I do decide to tackle this myself, should I bother getting both the passenger and driver side, or just tackle the damaged one (I'm thinking if this should be the same as buying only two tires and not just one).
Also, is this something that a novice wrenchhead should be tackling by himself, or would I be overwhelmed? I have basic handtools and I could get access to an air compressor with wrench, but is this something I should let a pro mechanic handle?
If so, I was just thinking of getting the parts at Kragen and just let a mechanic install them for me. Are these non OE parts good enough to use? Sorry if this seems like a lot of questions, never had this done before, and I would like to get this done right the first time.
I did a quick search, and the DIY forum has a couple of informative threads about changing out the boot or the whole axle. I was just curious that if I do decide to tackle this myself, should I bother getting both the passenger and driver side, or just tackle the damaged one (I'm thinking if this should be the same as buying only two tires and not just one).
Also, is this something that a novice wrenchhead should be tackling by himself, or would I be overwhelmed? I have basic handtools and I could get access to an air compressor with wrench, but is this something I should let a pro mechanic handle?
If so, I was just thinking of getting the parts at Kragen and just let a mechanic install them for me. Are these non OE parts good enough to use? Sorry if this seems like a lot of questions, never had this done before, and I would like to get this done right the first time.
nope just get the one side that blew and get the entire axle, its not worth it to replace the boot. At this point I can do from lift to set down with hand tools about 25 minutes. The big bitch will be 32mm axle nut. if you can get the center caps off the rims break the nut lose BEFORE lifting the car. It will keep it from just spinning the hub. Its pretty basic, and you don't need OE. Autozone offers lifetime warrantied axle's so no biggie.
This is a very very simple thing to do yourself, I would say give yourself 1.5 hours to get it done if the front end hasn't been torn apart recently.
This is a very very simple thing to do yourself, I would say give yourself 1.5 hours to get it done if the front end hasn't been torn apart recently.
Last edited by Civic2Scooby; Jun 13, 2007 at 09:31 PM.
True about Autozone. They're the least expensive, and they're gonna have them in stock.
Read the DIY a few times before you start, and don't be afraid to print the pics and take keep them by your side while you're doing it. I did that with Josh's clutch DIY.
Read the DIY a few times before you start, and don't be afraid to print the pics and take keep them by your side while you're doing it. I did that with Josh's clutch DIY.
Autozone axles are complete shit.
Just use my DIY and replace the boot. It is only $20 for a new boot set. Definitely a better option than buying remanufactured crap with blown out CV joints.
Just use my DIY and replace the boot. It is only $20 for a new boot set. Definitely a better option than buying remanufactured crap with blown out CV joints.
Fuck doing the boot, if the boot is torn than it is more than likely water/debris has gotten in and damaged the the race or roller. Then to properly do a boot you should pull the entire joing apart and clean it thouroughly to remove ALL grease and inspect. Then re-assemble the joint and pack it with the proper amount of Grease, then refit the boot and CV snap ring.....
or you can spend a few bucks extra and slap the entire bitch in there.
I can't remember if you have to take off the inner joint anyway to get the outer one done, but if you do, then you'll have to do them both. I agree about rebuilding them, unless they're fairly new joints, not worth the trouble. The Autozone ones are fine for daily drivers, they're cheap and lifetime, so if there's a problem you swap them free with no trouble (even if just the boot rips).
If your suspension hasn't been apart, then just be careful with the lower ball joint nut, if you screw that up, you'll be replacing it. PB BLaster, a joint seperator (screw type, not pickle fork, for pressure) and a hammer to knock the ball joint up. Also watch the lower shock bolt, if it loosens up and comes out, you're good. If it snaps, you'll be replacing that too.
If all of the fasteners come off fairly easily, then this is an easy job. Plus the initial tool cost (if you don't already have them) will pay for themselves the first or second time you use them.
If your suspension hasn't been apart, then just be careful with the lower ball joint nut, if you screw that up, you'll be replacing it. PB BLaster, a joint seperator (screw type, not pickle fork, for pressure) and a hammer to knock the ball joint up. Also watch the lower shock bolt, if it loosens up and comes out, you're good. If it snaps, you'll be replacing that too.
If all of the fasteners come off fairly easily, then this is an easy job. Plus the initial tool cost (if you don't already have them) will pay for themselves the first or second time you use them.
sucks you have had bad experience, but I have done about 10 axles for my and my buddies cars and never had one be bad from them :dunno:
Fuck doing the boot, if the boot is torn than it is more than likely water/debris has gotten in and damaged the the race or roller. Then to properly do a boot you should pull the entire joing apart and clean it thouroughly to remove ALL grease and inspect. Then re-assemble the joint and pack it with the proper amount of Grease, then refit the boot and CV snap ring.....
or you can spend a few bucks extra and slap the entire bitch in there.
Fuck doing the boot, if the boot is torn than it is more than likely water/debris has gotten in and damaged the the race or roller. Then to properly do a boot you should pull the entire joing apart and clean it thouroughly to remove ALL grease and inspect. Then re-assemble the joint and pack it with the proper amount of Grease, then refit the boot and CV snap ring.....
or you can spend a few bucks extra and slap the entire bitch in there.
9/10 by the time you realize you have a ripped boot its been ripped long enough to allow dirt / debris / water in there and replacing the boot isnt going to remove the contaminents.
just go buy a reman shaft from any auto parts store and slap it in there
60 bucks or so and you will be on your way in about 45 minutes ... lee is a lil more experienced than most so its 25 minute estimate is a lil short

oh and screw autozone's driveshafts ... but then i am a lil partial


