Ignition Coil
Power by Uncle Ben's Rice
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,343
Likes: 0
From: Upstate NY
Hey man,
I had a similiar problem... I have a turbo kit, so I thought maybe something with the ECU tuning was making the tach jump...
After I had replaced Coil, wires, plugs, rotor, cap, swapped in a working Dizzy, and I still had the same problem...
You need to check all of the grounds in your car, not just the connections at, near, or in the Dizzy.
My prob was a loose engine ground near the tranny ground point... It was loose and created a 2 month headache...
Start the car and have someone look under the open hood, (at night) to see any kind of sparking... that's how we found my problem...
Good luck!
I had a similiar problem... I have a turbo kit, so I thought maybe something with the ECU tuning was making the tach jump...
After I had replaced Coil, wires, plugs, rotor, cap, swapped in a working Dizzy, and I still had the same problem...
You need to check all of the grounds in your car, not just the connections at, near, or in the Dizzy.
My prob was a loose engine ground near the tranny ground point... It was loose and created a 2 month headache...
Start the car and have someone look under the open hood, (at night) to see any kind of sparking... that's how we found my problem...
Good luck!
Thread Starter
v-card member alpha
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 4,010
Likes: 0
From: Assplosion, NE
Update
Alright, so about a month ago I had to replace the Ignition Coil on my car. (https://www.honda-acura.net/forums/s...d.php?t=271432)
It was right after I had cleaned up all the connections under the distributor cap - I started the car, it idled for 30 seconds, then died and wouldn't restart.
I checked for spark and there was none and after checking the resistance of the coil found it was bad.
Put a new coil in and the car runs as before.
Not once since I put the new coil in has the tachometer acted up like it had been.
Just to refresh, it would sometimes work fine but others it would read off by 500-1000rpm and I later found that when it wasn't reading correctly I could floor the car, getting the revs up, and the tach needle would jump around a bit and then read correctly for at least a little while after I did this.
Whether or not the new coil alone is what fixed the tach problem I can't say for sure as I also cleaned up all the connections under the cap including the cap itself, the rotor, and on the ignitor.
During the first couple weeks I noticed the tach would still sometimes read about 200rpm over what the engine was actually doing (I've memorized idle & rpm @ certain speeds depending on gear) but the car has done this on and off since I first got it - my guess would be the ignitor may need to be replaced at some point but I plan to purchase a dizzy/ignitor combo if it goes out so I'll wait and see.
Interestingly, I haven't noticed the 200rpm inaccuracy the last couple weeks - I've read fouled plugs/bad wires b/c of higher resistance can over-work the coil and cause it to fail sooner so maybe my plugs have cleared up and are no longer causing the faulty readings :hsdunno: Just a guess.
Anyway, hope that helps someone
It was right after I had cleaned up all the connections under the distributor cap - I started the car, it idled for 30 seconds, then died and wouldn't restart.
I checked for spark and there was none and after checking the resistance of the coil found it was bad.
Put a new coil in and the car runs as before.
Not once since I put the new coil in has the tachometer acted up like it had been.
Just to refresh, it would sometimes work fine but others it would read off by 500-1000rpm and I later found that when it wasn't reading correctly I could floor the car, getting the revs up, and the tach needle would jump around a bit and then read correctly for at least a little while after I did this.
Whether or not the new coil alone is what fixed the tach problem I can't say for sure as I also cleaned up all the connections under the cap including the cap itself, the rotor, and on the ignitor.
During the first couple weeks I noticed the tach would still sometimes read about 200rpm over what the engine was actually doing (I've memorized idle & rpm @ certain speeds depending on gear) but the car has done this on and off since I first got it - my guess would be the ignitor may need to be replaced at some point but I plan to purchase a dizzy/ignitor combo if it goes out so I'll wait and see.
Interestingly, I haven't noticed the 200rpm inaccuracy the last couple weeks - I've read fouled plugs/bad wires b/c of higher resistance can over-work the coil and cause it to fail sooner so maybe my plugs have cleared up and are no longer causing the faulty readings :hsdunno: Just a guess.
Anyway, hope that helps someone