Clearing Stuff Up
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CAPiTA
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 113
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From: Wayland, MI
Clearing Stuff Up
B18C GSR 5-spd into 99 ex auto. Trying to clear things up. Im using the shift linkage from the japan teg, but im going to need to JY shop the rest, so can i use parts from any USDM manual civic or integra in the years 94-01? like for pedals, throttle cable, clutch lines, all that etc. And for when using my stock harness, is it that hard to tear apart the harness and re-arrange and add the wires i need to add, like im thinking its just a matter of putting the wires in different spots and then securing it back together?
I was wondering if i could use my ex throttle cable, or not. Also, do i need to get a manual shift linkage mount in place of my auto mount? im not totally sure about this this is just what i came across, i heard you need to just to make sure all of the shift linkage lines up correctly? Can i use my ex brake set up with the teg's axles, or do i need to or should i use the brakes from a GSR?
I was wondering if i could use my ex throttle cable, or not. Also, do i need to get a manual shift linkage mount in place of my auto mount? im not totally sure about this this is just what i came across, i heard you need to just to make sure all of the shift linkage lines up correctly? Can i use my ex brake set up with the teg's axles, or do i need to or should i use the brakes from a GSR?
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Joined: Jun 2006
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Did you read my response about auto to manual conversion? Here it is again in case you missed it. You can retain your original brakes and hubs. The Integra axles will slide right in. There is no direct replacement mount for the manual shifter. You will have to weld one in and fabricate the holes. You will have to go with a new brake and clutch pedal. They will slide right into the chassis. You can retain your throttle cable. Re-arranging the harness is the most time consuming, but the best way to make it a clean look. You can use the linkage from any 94-01 Integra or 99-00 Civic Si.
A few things about auto to manual conversion. I did one in a 1995 Integra LS Auto:
1) You will have to peel off your existing chassis bracket where the current auto tranny mount goes. You will have to get a manual tranny chassis bracket and then relocate and reweld the bracket. If you don't do this, then the manual tranny mount won't line up. There MAY be a customized motor mount out there (HASPORT) that is already designed for auto to manual conversion. Do some checking. But if not, or if you don't want the polyurethane insert that usually comes in aftermarket motor mounts, then you will have to relocate the chassis bracket. It will probably look like shit when done, so some paint would be in order.
2) When you disassemble the auto shifter, you will notice that the floorboard is all different than a manual tranny car. What we ended up doing is using some moderate guage steel, cutting it to size, welding her in. We then cut out the hole and tapped the bolt holes for the manual tranny linkage to hook up. The correct tranny linkage would be from a 94-01 Integra or 99-00 civic Si.
3) When the shifter is apart, you will also be disrupting the starter circuits and some other circuits. You will have to do some wire splicing in the harness right in front of the shifter. Your cruise control and clutch starter switch will also be disrupted. I didn't handle the circuitry when I did the conversion, so don't ask me which wires to splice together.
4) Regarding harnesses, you should invest in a Helm's manual for your '99 Civic, and also for the particular car from where the engine came from. The best choice harness would be from a manual tranny '99 Civic EX (you already have VTEC. It will plug right into your existing car harness. I swapped a B18C1 in my 95 Civic EX and that is exactly what I did with my original '95 harness. The only extra wires I had to run were for the knock sensor and Intake Air Bypass (secondary butterflies in the intake manifold. This is all OBD1. For your OBD2 setup, check those circuits I just described, and make sure that anything else doesn't need to be run (I'm not familiar with OBD2 wiring). When you use the original manual tranny harness for your car, many of the plugs won't line up to the GSR motor sensors. It will take awhile, but the cleanest looking harness will require that the wire loom and tape be stripped off completely. then line up all your plugs to the engine sensors and plug them in (with the engine out of the car). This is when you can run the knock sensor and IAB wires. The single knock sensor wire will have to be directed towards the passenger side of the harness. For the dual IAB wires, the negative lead will have to be directed to the passenger side of the harness, and positive lead will be directed to the drivers side of the harness. That lead must be spliced into the main lead for the injectors. This lead is off the PGM-FI main relay which is under the drivers side of the dashboard. Once you have the wires run, the other wiring is intact, and all plugs plugged in to the engine sensors, then you can reshape the harness exactly the way you need it with some electrical tape spaced every few inches. Once your shape is set, disconnect the harness from the engine, then use the original wire loom and re-install. Then wrap all the loom with steady runs of electrical tape. Your harness will fit, and look brand new in the process. The two new wires (maybe more for OBD2) will be dangling from the passenger side of the harness. If there's any open slots in any of the grey plugs, then that's how you can run these wires from the engine bay to the cars ECU. I ran two lengths of wire through the bundle of wires under the battery, through the firewall, which will end up right by the cars computer. Those ends will have to connect to the right ECU leads on your OBD2 computer. This is the part where you will have to ask yourself if you need the P72 OBD2 computer for states with emission laws, or whether you can go with an OBD1 computer (P28, P72, etc.) with a harness adapter.
Confused yet??? Motor swaps are NEVER directly plug and play like many would lead you to believe. They are maybe 80% plug and play. Your automatic to manual conversion would make it even harder than normal. If you have the time, the resources, and the money, yes it can be done.
A few things about auto to manual conversion. I did one in a 1995 Integra LS Auto:
1) You will have to peel off your existing chassis bracket where the current auto tranny mount goes. You will have to get a manual tranny chassis bracket and then relocate and reweld the bracket. If you don't do this, then the manual tranny mount won't line up. There MAY be a customized motor mount out there (HASPORT) that is already designed for auto to manual conversion. Do some checking. But if not, or if you don't want the polyurethane insert that usually comes in aftermarket motor mounts, then you will have to relocate the chassis bracket. It will probably look like shit when done, so some paint would be in order.
2) When you disassemble the auto shifter, you will notice that the floorboard is all different than a manual tranny car. What we ended up doing is using some moderate guage steel, cutting it to size, welding her in. We then cut out the hole and tapped the bolt holes for the manual tranny linkage to hook up. The correct tranny linkage would be from a 94-01 Integra or 99-00 civic Si.
3) When the shifter is apart, you will also be disrupting the starter circuits and some other circuits. You will have to do some wire splicing in the harness right in front of the shifter. Your cruise control and clutch starter switch will also be disrupted. I didn't handle the circuitry when I did the conversion, so don't ask me which wires to splice together.
4) Regarding harnesses, you should invest in a Helm's manual for your '99 Civic, and also for the particular car from where the engine came from. The best choice harness would be from a manual tranny '99 Civic EX (you already have VTEC. It will plug right into your existing car harness. I swapped a B18C1 in my 95 Civic EX and that is exactly what I did with my original '95 harness. The only extra wires I had to run were for the knock sensor and Intake Air Bypass (secondary butterflies in the intake manifold. This is all OBD1. For your OBD2 setup, check those circuits I just described, and make sure that anything else doesn't need to be run (I'm not familiar with OBD2 wiring). When you use the original manual tranny harness for your car, many of the plugs won't line up to the GSR motor sensors. It will take awhile, but the cleanest looking harness will require that the wire loom and tape be stripped off completely. then line up all your plugs to the engine sensors and plug them in (with the engine out of the car). This is when you can run the knock sensor and IAB wires. The single knock sensor wire will have to be directed towards the passenger side of the harness. For the dual IAB wires, the negative lead will have to be directed to the passenger side of the harness, and positive lead will be directed to the drivers side of the harness. That lead must be spliced into the main lead for the injectors. This lead is off the PGM-FI main relay which is under the drivers side of the dashboard. Once you have the wires run, the other wiring is intact, and all plugs plugged in to the engine sensors, then you can reshape the harness exactly the way you need it with some electrical tape spaced every few inches. Once your shape is set, disconnect the harness from the engine, then use the original wire loom and re-install. Then wrap all the loom with steady runs of electrical tape. Your harness will fit, and look brand new in the process. The two new wires (maybe more for OBD2) will be dangling from the passenger side of the harness. If there's any open slots in any of the grey plugs, then that's how you can run these wires from the engine bay to the cars ECU. I ran two lengths of wire through the bundle of wires under the battery, through the firewall, which will end up right by the cars computer. Those ends will have to connect to the right ECU leads on your OBD2 computer. This is the part where you will have to ask yourself if you need the P72 OBD2 computer for states with emission laws, or whether you can go with an OBD1 computer (P28, P72, etc.) with a harness adapter.
Confused yet??? Motor swaps are NEVER directly plug and play like many would lead you to believe. They are maybe 80% plug and play. Your automatic to manual conversion would make it even harder than normal. If you have the time, the resources, and the money, yes it can be done.