fugabch

just did a fresh rebuild on my d16z6. installed zc pistons (a6 actually i think) all i know is they are domed and were advertised for zc. i have 0.089 thick head gasket. i just put the whole motor together and check all torque specs 2 and 3 times. everything done by the book. noticed teh pistons were in the hole, but the dome stood above the top of the block by .071 and some change at TDC. with stock head gasket i could turn crank and it would lift the head. i used the 2 .025 gaskets, the blue coated gasket and the .075 and 1.00 thick gaskets. the compressed size was .089. i went to start it up and for the first 2 seconds all is great, but then suddenly i get a knocking (more like a clanking) and it gets worse if ya feather the gas. i have no idea what it is. and i have no idea where it is coming from.



i was told maybe the oil pump isnt working, so i removed the valve cover and it is squirting oil, but not throwing it as it did before i started the rebuild. i did not prime the pump with vaseline (didnt see that in the book til after all was said and done, but it was the same pump that came out of it so i didnt think that anything would have to be done). will it eventually start picking up oil (self-correcting) or is this a step i will have to go back and redo.

the head was milled .007 but according to the calculator used, i should be .04 in the hole (.033 after the milling) could it still be valves hitting top of pistons...

please help fast, i have put alot of time, effort and money into this build (first time i ever attempted a job that is this in-depth) and hate to ruin it now.

not sure if it matters, but the final compression ratio is 10.68:1


thank you for your time.

Omniscient

Sounds like it's valve tap.

Provocateur

If your oil pump really isn't pumping oil and creating oil pressure, it could be the bearings knocking from oil starvation. Get an oil pressure gauge and make sure that the oil pump is creating pressure.

fugabch

to describe the sound in more detail, it sounds more like horses galloping. are the valves lashing too far, will adjustment solve this problem, or will i have to have the pistons shaved.

also i forgot to mention that when i clean ALL the parts with engine degreaser, i rinsed them with water according to the directions.... this includes the oil pump.. i did towel dry all the parts and let them sit out in the sun for a few hours before assembly and i also used compressed air to blow any remaining water out. i didnt take apart the oil pump to see the gear condition, so i didnt think to use any type of lube or petroleum jelly (figured if it worked before, it should work now) will i have to disassemble the block and pack the pump to prime it, or will this problem eventually correct itself.. i know on older fords that no matter how long ya waited, it would never throw oil til ya lubed it, but i dont know squat about imports. if it isnt self correcting, can the pump be primed rather easily while in the car?

if it is valve tick.... what do i need to do to correct this problem? keep in mind, time and money are very limited.

also, you say to use a oil pressure gauge... am i correct to assume that i unplug the oil pressure sending unit and attach it to there, if not, where exactly does it go... never used one before. compression tester i know, most other tools i know, but i never really had to do my own diagnostics using alot of specialty tools and whatnot.

thanks again for your time and knowledge.

fugabch

since i am not too familiar with valve adjustments and this rebuild has tapped most of my patience... no pun intended. would i be better off taking it to the dealership for adjustment. also, since it is a fresh rebuild with no miles and maybe 5 minutes running time (low or little or pressure) should i have it towed or will it be safe to drive the 4 miles to the nearest acura dealership (nearest honda dealership is 30 miles away and is almost all interstate driving). what should i expect to pay for this service. thanks again for your time and knowledge...