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Buying a CTR front clip with everything

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Old Jun 2, 2006 | 12:43 PM
  #11  
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Let me bring up this topic ones more. I have spoken to several companies on the West and East coast and they all recomment the front clip in my situation (more money for them? maybe). If I only order and engine as a complete swap then I'll have to wrip out my hair and find the parts, wires, hoses etc. that I'm still going to miss. So in this case the front clip would be a wise choice, since I can get some of the money back by selling the bumper, fenders, grill, suspension, etc. Here the catch though, If the clip is a JDM CTR - right-hand drive and I will need the Left-hand drive harness, throttle cable and a few other little things. BUT, if I go ahead and convert my current Si to RHD I can skip those things. Sure I will spend some money on the rewelding of the firewall but that will substitute the costs of the forementiones parts. PLUS, I have a seriosly damaged steering column, if I use the JDM one it's not going to work (turn signal and wipers are on the opposite directions along with the ignition), unless it is going to be on the right side. So honestly, what are the negatives that will occur if I convert the car? I know there's nothing that states anything about RHD cars being illegal so that is OK, any chassis instabilities or potential electrical problems?

Also, I'd be very happy if someone can give me the exact steps of doing the conversion, I have only read that all I need is a rewelding of the firewall and that's it. Since everything is identicall in the engine bay and the front half of the EM1 is exactly the same as the CTR. So pls any input on the conversion would be great, thanks.
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Old Jun 2, 2006 | 01:28 PM
  #12  
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For starters, the cost of the throttle cable, harness, clutch lines, and whatever else you need will not even come close to the cost of a right hand drive conversion. You can get all the parts you need except the harness from just about any junkyard you go to. Max cost would be about $300-400. Converting a car to right hand drive is a major undertaking. The entire front of your car would have to be taken apart and reassembled. Anyone you could trust to do the job would charge an arm and a leg to do it. I'm talking at least a couple thousand dollars once all the labor is factored in. And that's a conservative estimate.

The firewall is a MAJOR torsional support for a vehicle (keeps it from twisting). While removed, if the car twists at all you will have major problems in the future. The least that could happen is you end up with a car that constantly squeaks and rattles. Worst case, you alter your suspension geometry.

If you really want to do this, you need to decide if it's worth the cost. If you find a good body man with the right equipment, the negative outcomes become much less likely. Buy you have to realize that anyone that good that has that much money for the equipment has that much money for a reason. Personally, I wouldn't recommend it. But, if it's really worth it to you to be different, to each his own.
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Old Jun 2, 2006 | 10:01 PM
  #13  
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I see, well that's something that I didn't want to hear - the chassis problems. I don't know what to do now, so many different choices. I'd like to hear more on the conversion though, anyone done this or knows anybody who has?
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Old Jun 3, 2006 | 09:40 AM
  #14  
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I would get the CTR motor idea out of your head. It is one of the most overhyped motors EVER. For $4500, you could have a mildly built and boosted LS motor making a hell of a lot more power and torque and it won't be a complete bitch to install.
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Old Jun 3, 2006 | 11:16 AM
  #15  
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I chose the CTR clip because not every shop has b16a clips. They say that they are not worth it to bring here. What is the LS motor you speak of? I'm not very proficient with every engien there is so no flaming pls. Like I said, I'm not 100% sure what to get or what my best deal would be with my car so I take any suggestions. Thanks.
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Old Jun 3, 2006 | 11:40 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Seruy
I chose the CTR clip because not every shop has b16a clips. They say that they are not worth it to bring here. What is the LS motor you speak of? I'm not very proficient with every engien there is so no flaming pls. Like I said, I'm not 100% sure what to get or what my best deal would be with my car so I take any suggestions. Thanks.
B18B1 I-4 16V DOHC Non-VTEC
1834 cc
9.2:1 CR
HP: 142hp@6300RPM
TQ: 127lb-ft@5200RPM
Redline: 6800 RPM

It comes in the 94-01 LS Integra. I don't know why your heart is set on a B16. Unless you boost it, it will not have any balls.
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Old Jun 3, 2006 | 01:18 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Däs Schmoo
It comes in the 94-01 LS Integra. I don't know why your heart is set on a B16. Unless you boost it, it will not have any balls.
It's a pretty fun motor in my completely gutted hatch. But having the motor in my four door before this I can say yeah, you don't feel a thing until you bring it up to like 6k rpm. And this person has a SI right?







Anyway, you know what your B16 felt like in your SI. I'm sure it was fun and all but it can have a lot more power for less money if you just get the LS motor.

Last edited by Omniscient; Jun 3, 2006 at 01:21 PM.
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Old Jun 3, 2006 | 08:58 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Omniscient
Anyway, you know what your B16 felt like in your SI. I'm sure it was fun and all but it can have a lot more power for less money if you just get the LS motor.
Yes, I do have an Si. So basically if I get a rear ended Acura with LS engine in it, 5 speed of course, would I be able to drop it in just like that? No modification is needed? Can I use the wiring, mounts, axles etc from there in my civic? Never thought about that before, plus I would rather spend the saved money on the turbo kit.

I was inteersted in the b16b is b/c of the front clip, I could not find a b16a2 clip. I was also interested in the b18c5 clip but more money for that one. So just to make it clear. LS sounds much more appealing now, since I know there are many of them on online auctions. So is that an easy drop???????
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Old Jun 4, 2006 | 08:53 AM
  #19  
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No more difficult than B16B.

You could also check out getting a B18C1. A complete swap shouldn't run you more than $3k, and you can then turbo it.
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