Hey guys,

Been awhile since I've been on here, but I've got a question. Tried searching for the answer, and didn't find what I was looking for.

Well, several weeks ago my car started sputtering at lower RPM, and it got to the point where I killed it a couple times off the line at a stoplight. Once I get to about 2500-3000 RPM, the car runs fine, but I need to keep it up there to keep the power and keep it from stuttering. I just ran some injector cleaner through it, but haven't noticed a difference yet.

I replaced the fuel filter last summer, and its got maybe 10K miles on it.

The gas mileage hasn't really gone down any (got 36+ mpg the last time I put gas in it).

I know you can listen to the injectors with a stethoscope to see if they're clicking when the cylinder fires, but isn't there a way to check the resistance of the injector itself? I read something about that a long time ago as a way to check if they were good, and if the resistance wasn't in a certain range then the injector was either bad or on its way out. How do you do this, and what are the resistance ranges? (Stock injectors on a D16Y8)

I don't know if this has anything to do with it, but when I turn the a/c on, the car has a pretty regular misfire at idel. I'm assuming its just in one cylinder because of the rythym to it.

I'm changing the oil pan tomorrow (its cracked and leaking dammit...), and I plan on checking the spark plugs at the same time. The whole thing may just be a bad or fouled plug.

But if anybody knows how to check the resistance across the fuel injectors, I would much appreciate it.

Oh yeah, this is a fairly heavily temperature dependent problem. When the car's cold or its cool outside, it runs fine. When its hot outside or the car's been running for awhile, that's when I notice the problem.

Thanks!

 

check your spark plug wires...check for cracks. grab a friends spark plug wires and tell us if the problme goes away

 

A multimeter.

A high impedance injector should measure around 12 ohms resistance. (I just tested a set of known good injectors that measured at 13.9-14 ohms.)

 

why not put in new injectors and see if the problem goes away?

 

it isnt injectors.....it is spark.

 

i second that.

 

Doesn't appear to be either the injectors or the spark...

I listened to the injectors and all clicked normally.

I checked the injector resistance, and all ranged from 13.3-14.1 ohms.

I pulled all 4 plugs, and they had normal burn corrosion on them. I cleaned em all up, checked the gaps (one of them had too big of a gap), and put them back in. Also looked for cracks, and didn't find any.

I checked the plug wire resistance, and all of them measured good. Didn't have a spare set to swap them out completely though.

When changing the oil pan, the oil smelled gassy. The coolant level is also low. Would a compression check tell anything about the head gasket, and could this be a source of the problem?

 

other possibilities:

*vacuum issue
*ignition
*FPR

 

just get some new wires...not plugs. how did you check the resitance of the wires? the problem is in your spark plug wires.

 

Don't forget that your car has a distributor. Replace the cap and rotor. If the gap is too big inside the distributor, it will have an orange dust in it. If there's oil in there, your distributor's main bearing is failing.

You could also have issues with any of the other 7 electrical parts bundled up inside it. I think there's like 4 sensors, a coil, an ignitor, and a switch if you're VTEC. It definitely sounds like a spark problem to me, too. Mainly because none of your plugs were crispy or fouled. Fuel delivery seems to be accurate. I think it's electrical (most temperature-dependent problems are).