wanted for my eg hatch, wondering what kind of numbers this setup gives you bone stock. How much hp does it produce and all the other goodies.

 

its all depends on how much you wanna spend on it if you wanna build it up to the t's then you could hit or be around 200 if done with the right tuning bottom end built and some cams at least up top the only problem withall v-tec conversions is there reliabilty wish ya luck

 

they are realiable, if built right.
besides a head, block, and tranny. there are MANY things you're gonna want to do if you want it to last as long as another engine.

first, bottom end.
you're gonna want ARP rod bolts, as the stock rod bolts on a LS are not sufficient in strength. with that you're gonna need the holes to put the bolts in either polished hardcore and pressed in by a machine shop, or machined and pressed, whichever.
then, you're going to need to get the rods themselves resized. this is when they take the big part of the rod, and round it out to a prefect circle again, as when using the ARP rod bolts the circle becomes distorted, and needs to be reshapen.

THEN you're going to want pistons other than the LS pistons. LS pistons will give you prolly 9 something compression, which sucks for N/A
i'd get GSR, or better b16a2 pistons. new rings, and wrist pins. you don't need to get the block bored or anything, just cleaned up a bit, so there are not any imperfections to interfere.

moving on to the head. besides the machining/reworking the head, you're prolly gonna want to get some new cam seal if possible, just in case. you can use the stock cams w/ whichever head you use, or upgrade, your choice. you're also going to want matching head bolts/studs (if possible get ARP head studs, because if there is a problem and you need to remove the head a couple times, they are MUCH less likely to get fucked up doing it)

for the ECU: get one from phearable.net, as they are already chipped with a basemap, from a program used on cars that will be similar to your setup. basically this will make it so its safe to drive it around for a while until you can get it tuned. you don't HAVE to get it tuned, but if you want to prolong the life of it, you eventually SHOULD or WILL get it tuned. not only does it add to the life, but also it will give your engine the most potential, as it perfects the timing through all RPM ranges, and also works to correct issues with your air/fuel mixture. Also it helps get the most potential of performance parts (bolt ons, internals, etc...)

and if you want an easy way out, depending if you have an OBD2 setup, get the conversion harness from them also.

now for accessory parts. you're going to probably want a new alternator/starter, just to make sure, always a good idea. but you want a water pump that goes with the head (i.e. GSR/GSR, B16/B16 TYPE R/TYPE R) along with the matching timing belt.

you DEFINATELY want a GSR or Type R oil pump, because with the setup, you'll prolly spin a bearing or worse with the LS oil pump.

you're also going to want a Golden Eagle LSVTEC kit, it helps ALOT in the head work, and pretty much makes it so theres not alot, if any, machining required.

additional parts:
new intake manifold if you use the GSR head, as it gets rid of the butterfly valve problem.
mounts, but as i've heard you can use all the ones in your 92-95 except the tranny mount.
half (intermediate) shafts
axels
Transmission
plugs/wires
intake
header
good clutch/flywheel

all in all you're looking at spending a minimum of 2 g depending on how cheap you can get parts.


and don't forget to get that tuned

 

oh yeah, and don't forget to get one damn good alignment afterwords:crazyr: