I just built a b16 for my 99 civic it has .020 over, 11.5:1cr wiseco pistons, eagle rods and stock crank. It has a completely stock head, intake and exhust manifolds(ill give the long explination on why that is at the bottom for those who care). After doing the inital run in i took it out for a street drive(first off i did the simple shit already ie checked all my wires, the timming, replaced ALL the vaccumm hoses, no cel). When i go past 1/4 throttle it boggs down to the point of almost shutting off, if i let the throttle back up to 1/4 it will rev up to vtec but once vtec switches over it boggs down and wont rev any more. I cant figure it out and no one i have talked to can figure it out. I was wondering if anyone else has had that problem and how they fixed it.

Why i have a stock head on it.
When i bought the car i thought it had a cracked head(it wasnt but thats what i thought because thats what the owner told me, but he also told me it was because it had ran hot once and that it had never had forced induction or nitrous on it) So i bought a 100% working head from a friend(i helped him pull it off myself) and had it ported and polished, titaium valves, valve springs and retainters, Skunk2 stage2 cams, and finished it up with aem cam gears. Once i get the "cracked" head off i notice something very strange. Every single one of the pistons are cracked and when i removed them all of the rings were shot and the block was scored badly(thats why its bored .020 now). When i was taking the oil pan off i seen where they had tapped the oil pan for a turbo and then welded the hole shut when they removed it. SO that explains the bottom end being shot. So i get the block back from the machine shop i put it together and put the head back on it. Back in the car it goes. I try for ever to get it cranked but it wont start. So i think to myself i might have the timing off 180. So i set it to TDC and turn the cams 180. It starts... kind of. I have to feather the gas to keep it barely running and its blowing oil out of the front of the head and oil and water out of the side where the timing belt is. SO i pull the head because i thought i might have gotten a bad head gasket. So when i get my new copper head gasket i put in my new arp head studs, put it back together and try again. Same thing, i have to feather the gas to keep it barely running and it blows oil out of the front of the head and oil and water out of the side where the timing belt is. So now i know its not the head gasket so i tear it back down and just out of sheer anger put the stock head on it. It fires up and runs fine(during the run in), No oil or water comming from anywhere. So now i am about to do the machine shop in.

 

HHhmmm. Im sure you have checked this but possibly a funky Map sensor? TPS? Any voltage problems? like is your alternator is shot to were your running off battery power? Im just as stumped as you so excuse me if any of these sound stupid.

As far as your head deal, make sure to plug up that hoist bolt hole, and as far as the side goes maybe you have a crack or a portion of the head or block that is damaged to were the head gasket wont seal it. Those are a couple problems i have seen. ( the hoist bolt hole is stripped on mine so thats i found out about that one lol )

I donno dude, good luck though

 

if you are bored .2 over than most likely your ecu is freaking out so you need a hondata and spend some time on the dyno tuning it.

 

i don;t know if this will help u, but i was having almost the same problem after my b16 swap, my car wouldn't go over 3k rpm without bogging...it was the crank sensor (located in the distributor on a b16a1)...anyway, my problem was a wiring issue at the ecu, yours may be the actualy crank sensor...worth looking into..