b20 vtec vs b16
if the CRVTEC is built properly than it is one hell of a machine, but properly means $$$$$. if he is just planning on slapping on a VTEC head using the golden eagle conversion kit, then I would def. just go b16a...although if it were me I would save all that money and boost a stock b18b1 for the same price but more hp and fun for teh win
B20's have very thin sleeves, but can definitely have potential if, like stated above, done right. I would agree to not go with either, and drop in a B18c1 or even the B1. Both are a lot of fun boosted or N/A.
The problem with the b20 is not the sleeve. The sleeves are fine...they can hold high compression, high rpm, and boost. The problem is in the OEM rod bolts. They tend to stretch under high RPM loads...that's the weak link. 8k rpm every day is not reliable unless you have at least ARP rod bolts. I'd rather have a B20 over a B18C/B or B16 any day of the week, even if you didn't slap a vtec head on it...just by the sheer cost of the motor compared to the GSR. A B20 costs slightly more than a B18B, and you get more torque. I'm not a very big fan of the B16, and they'll cost more than a B20 for a relatively new motor.
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2015 Ford Mustang GT Fastback - Ingot Silver - 6M - Performance Package - Gibson Catback, JLT CAI, FR 47lb injectors, BAMA E85 tune, Eibach Sportline, BMR wheel hop kit, UPR oil separator, Steeda shifter bushing/bracket
Team B.O.B.® - Ballaz on a Budget
2015 Ford Mustang GT Fastback - Ingot Silver - 6M - Performance Package - Gibson Catback, JLT CAI, FR 47lb injectors, BAMA E85 tune, Eibach Sportline, BMR wheel hop kit, UPR oil separator, Steeda shifter bushing/bracket
Team B.O.B.® - Ballaz on a Budget
thanks for the info guys.. this kind of stuff confuse me more and more everyday hahahhaaa.... heard some story that some guy has a b20 vtec and some kind of headers on hatchback running somewhere in the 12 sec on a quarter mile run...


