93 si..engine cutting out
10-14-2005, 08:46 PM
#13
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Originally Posted by CivicKniteRyder
i switched my main relay with a working one....didn't work engine still stalling 
10-14-2005, 09:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Wharbone
Did you just not believe me when I said it wouldn't be your main relay? Check your coil, ignitor, and distributor.
10-14-2005, 10:23 PM
#16
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going to check distributor....when i changed my distributor o-ring a few months back i heard a pop nosie on start up. didn't think much of it ran fine up untill now.
how do i check if the feul pump is working? i hear the humming sound just before start up and i flood my plugs after a few tries...does that mean it working?
how do i check if the feul pump is working? i hear the humming sound just before start up and i flood my plugs after a few tries...does that mean it working?
10-14-2005, 10:36 PM
#17
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If you hear the fuel pump humming and you have pressure at the rail, it's fine. I think you have a distributor problem, with the coil or igniter (ICM)...or your timing belt has jumped a tooth or two
10-14-2005, 10:55 PM
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Sounds like a coil, ignitor, cap, or rotor problem to me too. Check the plugs first though. My step mom's EX ran really bad and did the same stuff. All it was, was one of the plugs was threaded in there wrong (by the shop they took it to). It was rethreaded and works fine. NOT saying you have cross threaded plug, but the point is that it could be a really small thing causing you trouble. Do this... Take the coil out and check it with OHM meter (I'll get you the procedure in a second), Then take the ignitor (control module to AutoZone or equivilant and have it checked, Buy a cap and rotor while you are there, and a set of stock NGK style plugs. When I first got my car, 10 years back, I spent about $6 each for split fire plugs and the car barely ran after a few weeks. USE NGK.
Coil check (I'll quote myself from another post)...
Take the coil out of the car (or just detatch all the wires to it, I'd just take it out).
1st, Measure the resistance between the two spots where you took off the screwed on wires. It should be 0.6 - 0.8 ohms
Next, Measure the resistance between the the post with the spring (high tension) and the coil positve terminal (that's the place where the yellow/black wire was and has a round screw down). This should be 12.8 to 19.8 K-ohms. (this is where mine was out of range).
The auto parts store that I went to didn't even know how to test this (they even told me coils couldn't be tested). I took my ohm meter to the store with me so I could compare parts once I learned the above procedure. I put the new coil in and my weekend of cussin and frustration was over. I hope this helps. My car is a 92 civic VX.
Coil check (I'll quote myself from another post)...
Take the coil out of the car (or just detatch all the wires to it, I'd just take it out).
1st, Measure the resistance between the two spots where you took off the screwed on wires. It should be 0.6 - 0.8 ohms
Next, Measure the resistance between the the post with the spring (high tension) and the coil positve terminal (that's the place where the yellow/black wire was and has a round screw down). This should be 12.8 to 19.8 K-ohms. (this is where mine was out of range).
The auto parts store that I went to didn't even know how to test this (they even told me coils couldn't be tested). I took my ohm meter to the store with me so I could compare parts once I learned the above procedure. I put the new coil in and my weekend of cussin and frustration was over. I hope this helps. My car is a 92 civic VX.
10-14-2005, 10:58 PM
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Should the car "flood out" by just turning the key to run a few times? I wouldn't think so. Is there a problem there? Do the stuff I said in my last reply and then look at a possible fuel injector leak into the cylinder. Doubt it, but you have me wondering.