I have no spark at the coil.

I have replaced the Electronic Control Module inside the distributor cap (the unit that has four electrical spades). This did not solve the problem.

Rechecked and Double Checked all fuses under hood. All OK.

Checked Grounding. Grounding OK.

I could replace the coil, but was advised they don't frequently go bad.

Any suggestions on what I may want to test or try next?

Thanks,

SpeedyK

 

Coils go bad fairly often. Replace both your coil and ignitor. When one goes, alot of the time the other goes.

It's possible your distributor is bad, but I would bet on the coil/ignitor.

 

Most Def.

Coils go all the time, and are usually the first thing to replace when there is no spark. Other than that, I would make sure your spark plugs are good/spaced properly, plug wires are good, and the distributor is in good shape.

 

For future reference that little four-pronged module is the ignitor, and coils are the most common point of failure in your ignition.

If you can return the ignitor you just installed I would do it.

 

Check the resistance of the coil to see if there is an open circuit or high resistance.

 

This sounds like the same problem I had. The above advice is good but not good enough... I had the idea to check for high or no resistance on mine. It needs to be in a range. I'll open my book and tell you.... you'll need a multi-meter.

Take the coil out of the car (or just detatch all the wires to it, I'd just take it out).

1st, Measure the resistance between the two spots where you took off the screwed on wires. It should be 0.6 - 0.8 ohms

Next, Measure the resistance between the the post with the spring (high tension) and the coil positve terminal (that's the place where the yellow/black wire was and has a round screw down). This should be 12.8 to 19.8 K-ohms. (this is where mine was out of range).

The auto parts store that I went to didn't even know how to test this (they even told me coils couldn't be tested). I took my ohm meter to the store with me so I could compare parts once I learned the above procedure. I put the new coil in and my weekend of cussin and frustration was over. I hope this helps. My car is a 92 civic VX.

P.S. I had a main relay problem for a long time before I figured out what the problem was. When you turn the key to run (not start) you will hear the fuel pump run for about 2 seconds and then you will hear the main relay click. Then the car will then start right up (without cranking for much of that 2 seconds). If you don't hear the relay click, reach under the dash and "flick" it with your middle finger and make the sticky relay click over. I got my replacement from a salvage yard for $10.

The Haynes manual for civic is invaluable (#42024). I got mine off ebay for a few bucks. Walked me right through my coil problem.

Sorry to go on and on But I want to help.

 

92 civ had a TSB (technical service bulletin) about A stream coil. Replace the coil.