racerdave

Ok, I am now finished with my suspension " Neuspeed/Koni SP3 shocks all around, and Coilovers".

Now I am looking for a B series motor to have fun with. I dont really care what I get, I am just lookin for the best deal, and trying not to spend over 2000 for the basic motor (block, head, In+Ex Manifold, Dist., and ECU.

I am thinking of geting the block and head sperate, I have 1000 to spend now, and I want to get a 1.6 head, and get it ported to start me off. And then I still have the option of a 1.8 or a 1.6 block.

My goal is to make 160-180whp N/A. So its not to far out there, but this is just to start me out..... I dont want to set the line to high, and spend alot of money right away, I want to make this build more of a learning experience.

So im lookin for a stock B16 head, B16 or B18 Block for a decent price.

Also can somone help me out as far as what I need to do to reach my goal, I am a gearhead, and I know the basics, open up the flow, and how to tune, but I need to know the results of a B16 head with a B18 block, I have heard people talk about it, and did some research on the net, but didnt come up with much.... So anything will help.

VTEC-Power

So basically you either want a B16 or LS/VTEC??? B16 is far cheaper then building a LS/VTEC, but you will get more power out of the LS/VTEC.

racerdave

I am leaning towards the B16, I dont know what it is, but I want to keep it fairly original, since the B16 was a stock civic motor. Im going in that direction, but if I find a good deal on a B18 I will go with that.

I thought I had a good deal a few weeks ago, I got a GSR out of a friends teggy for 2000$, took the head off, and found that the block and the head are cracked in 2 places. He gave me my $ back, and I got my suspension done with 1/2 of it, now I have 1000$ to spend. And I need to get the ball rolling.

I was lookin at Hmotors, and they have a B16A 92-95 (SiR-II) Long Block, for 900 and that includes Motor, Intake Manifold, Exhaust Manifold, Injectors, Fuel Rail, Throttle body, Alternator, and Distributor. It sounds like a good deal.

I would like to know what I can use out of my EX, like my Alternator, Axles+Half Shaft, Shift Linkage, or Stock Motor Mounts ?

They also have the same motor with everything except:
- Axles with Half Shaft
- Shift Linkage
- Stock Motor Mounts

for 1750.00, or the complete swap for 2250.00, but I think I can get the 3 things above for under 500.00 at a local yard. So.....

What does everyone think about this?

VTEC-Power

I got the complete B16a swap from HMO for $1800 but I also have a CRX. I know I needed mounts and shift linkage that was all, I don't know what you will need besides mounts

sherwood

i'd get a b18c1 to start with. costs more but the torque is more gratifying than the heartless b16.... not to mentiont th ehigher deck hight will allow you to bore it out to 2 liters and still retain all the pluses of having a b18c block over that of a b20/ls block.

VTEC-Power

Yea sometimes I miss torque, but it makes up in top end

PDiggityDogg

I bought my top and bottoms separate - both for $100. In the end, I think I paid around $500-ish for everything but a transmission.
Go LS! Its got better tq than gsr, it costs less, is just as good a bottom end (basically - you can get girdles to hold the revs of 9k). Personally, I feel its a great engine thats simply overlooked because its not vtec (which is overrated anyway).

There isnt anything you listed that you can swap over (D to B series). You have no Dseries halfshafts

sherwood

first off vtec is overrated, but it isnt useless, it's an ingenious system that allows an engine to continue making power past where other engines just don't.

as for the LS idea, the loss of oil squirters is a real turn off for me, and i will still and always suggest you start off with a vtec block if you ever plan to use a vtec head.

ewood87

build up a block + non-vtec head w/ some stage 3+ cams so it revs to like 10k+. thatll woop some vtec ass.

all vtec does is give you the best of both worlds (low end + high end) and a hot cam will just give you high end (and more of it).. but who cares when you got it punched your always revd high anyways. vtecs more of an economy thing.. how many 10 second cars or faster do you see with vtec/vvt?

sherwood

you are right about that, the fact that it takes you only a second to rip through first and then your always up in the revs means that a lowend isnt needed...on the track

but for daily driving do you really want to sacrifice? the idea is to compromise.. that way you don't have to drive around this 10 second track car high into 10k everyday of the week.