buying a turbo kit :-)
Thread Starter
for that added pep
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 1,203
Likes: 0
From: greensburg PA
buying a turbo kit :-)
my buddy is upgrading, so that = cheap parts for me 
long story short im getting
- drag manifold
- turbonetics t3/t04e 50 trim turbo
- turbonetics deltagate wastegate
- turbo XS ball and spring boost controller
all this for $600. i think its a deal because it basically takes care of most of the main components and the price is right, the turbo only has about 7000 miles since it was rebuilt and is great condition. i plan on upgrading to a tial after i run the deltagate for a while cause i just dont trust the deltagate, cause they have a tendancy to creep and blow up motors (happened to 3 people i know on various cars). but i plan on tunning DSM injectiors with crome being that my ECU is already socketed and a walbro 255. as for an intercooler i will prolly buy the ssautocrome kit off ebay that comes with piping, unless i can find a deal on a used one from someone local and have piping made. havent decided on a blow of valve yet but it wont be an RFL (everybody and their mother has it around here). mos likely it will be a greddy type S, RS, blitz super sounder or a HKS super sequential
basically i'll have about 1500 into it after its all said and done and that is still cheaper than the GSR motor i was gonna buy and build my LS bottom end than swap heads. and i'll be faster, but a bandwagoner (at least around here )
just thought id share
long story short im getting
- drag manifold
- turbonetics t3/t04e 50 trim turbo
- turbonetics deltagate wastegate
- turbo XS ball and spring boost controller
all this for $600. i think its a deal because it basically takes care of most of the main components and the price is right, the turbo only has about 7000 miles since it was rebuilt and is great condition. i plan on upgrading to a tial after i run the deltagate for a while cause i just dont trust the deltagate, cause they have a tendancy to creep and blow up motors (happened to 3 people i know on various cars). but i plan on tunning DSM injectiors with crome being that my ECU is already socketed and a walbro 255. as for an intercooler i will prolly buy the ssautocrome kit off ebay that comes with piping, unless i can find a deal on a used one from someone local and have piping made. havent decided on a blow of valve yet but it wont be an RFL (everybody and their mother has it around here). mos likely it will be a greddy type S, RS, blitz super sounder or a HKS super sequential
basically i'll have about 1500 into it after its all said and done and that is still cheaper than the GSR motor i was gonna buy and build my LS bottom end than swap heads. and i'll be faster, but a bandwagoner (at least around here
)just thought id share
I'm made of meat!
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 3,580
Likes: 0
From: Richmond, VA
Sounds like a steal if the turbo's in good shape and the manifold has no cracks. A lot can happen to a turbo in 7000 miles. Certain BOV's cause a lot of wear on turbo thrust bearings and it can be excessive depending on whether they're big, small, vent to atmosphere or recirculated... how much internal volume the IC pipes have and what kind of couplers are used. The wrong weight of oil can kill one really fast, too. I have a Big16g with less than 5000 miles on it, and it's got a lot of in-out play due to the SSQV's obnoxious chatter. Before anyone tells me it's adjustable, that screw does absolutely nothing to relieve that and the new ones are shipping without them. That chatter has blown my end tanks off the IC twice at just 21 PSI, and it's killing my thrust bearing because a TD05 Mitsubishi center section uses a wet bearing.
Don't buy that stuff in the dark. Check the in-out shaft play (ideally is .010" for non-ball bearing turbos but they're usually more than that new. Just make sure the wheels won't touch down and never have), and the side-side shaft play (supposed to be .01"). Check both wheels for cracks. They can actually throw the balance off and kill your engine if it comes apart. If it spins freely and there are no white streaks on any of the manifold parts, flanges, or the exhaust housing, then sounds like you've got something to work with. Roll with it.
Don't buy that stuff in the dark. Check the in-out shaft play (ideally is .010" for non-ball bearing turbos but they're usually more than that new. Just make sure the wheels won't touch down and never have), and the side-side shaft play (supposed to be .01"). Check both wheels for cracks. They can actually throw the balance off and kill your engine if it comes apart. If it spins freely and there are no white streaks on any of the manifold parts, flanges, or the exhaust housing, then sounds like you've got something to work with. Roll with it.