valve clearence
I recently adjusted the valves on my wife's 93 DX (d15), cause i was doing it on my car anyway and hers has like 190k. I used the specs in my haynes manuel .007-.009 intake, .009-.011 exhaust. I was suprised that it seemed that every single one was under spec, so I opened them all up to be in spec but now the valvetrain noticably louder. I was pretty careful not to open any up to far or not tighten them down far enough so im psoitive thats not it. Anyone ever run into this?
When you do a valve drop for the first time, most people do not tighten them down enough. You want to tighten so the feeler guage is a little tough to get it out, but not too tight where your scratching your guage.
And like he said ^^^ you do valve jobs when your engine is bone cold.
And like he said ^^^ you do valve jobs when your engine is bone cold.
ok, cold or warm, not running hot. what i have done is backtrack in 45 degree increments to make sure that the lash is still correct, cams after time may not be true. if it looser then re adjust it at that increment. tighter leave it be. always remeasure clearance after you torque the locknut as it can change the spec. it seems tricky but take your time, speed comes with experience.
like when beavis and butthead glued their hair to their faces cause the wanted beards? they kept saying "damn, im smooth". if thats what you must say than this is what i must say. you know a whole hell of alot about everything. do you work on hondas professionaly?
yeah it was cold. When I tighten the lock nut i use box wrench so I can hold a screwdriver on the adjuster to keep it from turning. And yeah i checked it them all when I was done. should I aim for the bottom or the middle of the spec? the way i was doing it was loosening the screw(they were all tight) until i could get the feeler gauge for the bottom of the spec in, and then as long as i couldn't fit the gauge for top of the spec in, I knew it was in spec.


