The right way to remove the crank bolt
Closet Ricer
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 138
Likes: 0
I used 3 diff air impacts and couldn't get mine off. Ended up pulling the starter and shoving a crowbar into the flywheel to keep the crank from turning. Used a breaker bar from there. Hardest part was pulling the starter... :ghey:
1999 Civic Driver
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 370
Likes: 0
From: Newmarket, ON, Canada
I got a new crankshaft pulley bolt from honda. This bolt, they state, is different from the other ones and there is method to putting it back on properly. The bolt has a number "10" on it. I'll scan the procedure in tonite when I get home if I have time.
One of the original OG's
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,429
Likes: 0
From: San Antonio, Texas
I guess you guys either have cheap compressors or cheap 1/2" impacts. I have a small 5HP craftsman compressor and a mid range Husky 1/2" impact from lowe's and ther has been nothing automotive that it can't take off. My uncle owns a tire shop and he does a lot of farm equipment and tractor trailors. He has a few 1" impacts that will break your arm if you are not careful. And ingersoll rand 1/2" impact is 700ft/lb or so at 100psi. No crank bolt could be tighter than that. I just use the Moroso wrench to keep the engine from moving off TDC.
I'm made of meat!
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 3,580
Likes: 0
From: Richmond, VA
I just set TDC after removing the crank pulley. Old skewl style.
The crank gear is splined on with a woodruff key, so it won't hurt to set TDC after removing the pulley. After the pulley's off, you don't need to monkey with that crank bolt. I snug the crank bolt back on there and put a 2' phillips screwdriver through the hole for sparky #1, set TDC while I CAN CHECK THE MARKS BECAUSE THE CRANK PULLEY'S NOT THERE, and bingo.
With the crank bolt snugged, you can rotate it into position, yank the belt, do what you've got to do, and the last thing you did before starting the job was set the timing. Once you have the new timing belt back on, you don't have to worry about honkin' the bolt and disturbing the timing because if you've set the tensioner, the belt will hold it in place.
I've never once needed the moroso tool. I just use an Ingersoll-Rand 1/2" impact. It actually produces 1100'lbs of torque at 169 PSI. It has ALWAYS worked, and when it can't remove a bolt, you can always turn it up high enough to break that sucker off.
The crank gear is splined on with a woodruff key, so it won't hurt to set TDC after removing the pulley. After the pulley's off, you don't need to monkey with that crank bolt. I snug the crank bolt back on there and put a 2' phillips screwdriver through the hole for sparky #1, set TDC while I CAN CHECK THE MARKS BECAUSE THE CRANK PULLEY'S NOT THERE, and bingo.
With the crank bolt snugged, you can rotate it into position, yank the belt, do what you've got to do, and the last thing you did before starting the job was set the timing. Once you have the new timing belt back on, you don't have to worry about honkin' the bolt and disturbing the timing because if you've set the tensioner, the belt will hold it in place.
I've never once needed the moroso tool. I just use an Ingersoll-Rand 1/2" impact. It actually produces 1100'lbs of torque at 169 PSI. It has ALWAYS worked, and when it can't remove a bolt, you can always turn it up high enough to break that sucker off.