P28 ECU problems *urgent*
I just swapped my D15D6 out of my 90 CRX for a D16Z6 out of a 94 Del Sol. I got the OBD1 adapter harness, got it running fine and drove it home. After I start it once and shut it off, it WILL NOT start again and throws code 15 (ignition output) till I reset the ECU. I reset the ECU and it will start and run fine, I shut it off and it wont start again. The P28 was an automatic and I converted it to a manual properly from what I've seen. I've tried removing RP17 and RP18 with a jumper on RP18, and I've also tried RP17 removed with the resistor on RP18. Any way I do it, it still does the same thing. I tried an ECU somebody else had that he had modified taking just RP17 out and the car ran fine and started every time. Anybody know where my issue is?
Not too sure about this, but might be related to the neutral/park safety switch if that has anything to do with the ecu.. maybe the ecu is looking for it since it was automatic, and now that its manual it's not getting the right signal.. just a shot in the dark
Originally Posted by bambbrose
Not too sure about this, but might be related to the neutral/park safety switch if that has anything to do with the ecu.. maybe the ecu is looking for it since it was automatic, and now that its manual it's not getting the right signal.. just a shot in the dark
do you know anyone with an OBD1 civic that you could try your ECU in their car? Or even their ECU in your car....
Auto to manual - Remove RP17 and install a jumper across RP18. that's it. I've done it successfully many times.
your problem....
with the ignition on, make sure you have 12 volts on the Blk/Yel wire on the two wire plug at the distributor. if no... bad connection on Blk/Yel wire between distributor and ignition switch. (main relay??)
if yes then with the ignition on, is there at least 10 volts at the ECU between A21 and A26? what about A22 and A26? if no then bad connection between Yel/Grn wire from ignition unit to ECU (A21 or A22) or you have a bad ignitor unit.
if yes then replace ECU.
^^^ taken from Honda service manual.
removing RP17 and jumpering RP18 is simply pulling that pin of the micro to ground and releasing the other to float to 5volts, it's possible that the resistor is enough to make the Micro see ground. It's also possible that you accidentally shorted something in your ECU. Or even have an intermittent ignitor...
Auto to manual - Remove RP17 and install a jumper across RP18. that's it. I've done it successfully many times.
your problem....
with the ignition on, make sure you have 12 volts on the Blk/Yel wire on the two wire plug at the distributor. if no... bad connection on Blk/Yel wire between distributor and ignition switch. (main relay??)
if yes then with the ignition on, is there at least 10 volts at the ECU between A21 and A26? what about A22 and A26? if no then bad connection between Yel/Grn wire from ignition unit to ECU (A21 or A22) or you have a bad ignitor unit.
if yes then replace ECU.
^^^ taken from Honda service manual.
removing RP17 and jumpering RP18 is simply pulling that pin of the micro to ground and releasing the other to float to 5volts, it's possible that the resistor is enough to make the Micro see ground. It's also possible that you accidentally shorted something in your ECU. Or even have an intermittent ignitor...


