what to do and what to get?
#1
what to do and what to get?
So im considering to go B20 VTEC, i'd be using my gsr head.
what would I need to get?
what would i need to buy?
also somebody told me that there was a difference between the b20b and b20z i guess ( am i talking bulls|t?)
what would I need to get?
what would i need to buy?
also somebody told me that there was a difference between the b20b and b20z i guess ( am i talking bulls|t?)
#2
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the b20b if i remember correctly doesnt have a knock sensor and the b20z does, but this is a easy remedy, all you have to do is put it on to the alternator bracket in place of one of the bolts that holds the alternator bracket on the block. other than that, i think they are the same. Also, you need to search the web for more information about this, anything and everything on this subject is out there, you just have to do a little work to obtain that information. good luck on your project.
#4
Originally Posted by shifty35
You'd need to get some kind of oil setup to supply oil to the head. Check out the LS/VTEC setups that Golden Eagle sells.
#5
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what engine do you have already? are you already swapped to a gsr?
if so I would stick with the gsr shortblock....but to answer your question
if you need a complete swap still you have a ton of shit left to buy (if you'd like to know what, let me know)
as for the b20 block, go with a b20z over the b20b, even if the b20b is from japan it's not guaranteed to be as good as a b20z.
b20z has 9.6:1 CR and 17 more chp than the b20b... also has 800rpm higher redline from the factory.
as for block preparation, you will need to cut vtec valve reliefs in the stock pistons, or upgrade to some nicer higher compression pistons, you will need ARP rod bolts at a minimum if you want to rev to 8000rpm safely. the b20 oil pump is said to be the same part number as the itr oil pump, so I don't think you need to upgrade it, but some people say you should.. I have no proof or experience with that part of this. seriously , unless you have a lot of time and money on your hands, it's not worth it. Just sleeve an LS block, it'd be stronger and not that much more expensive
if so I would stick with the gsr shortblock....but to answer your question
if you need a complete swap still you have a ton of shit left to buy (if you'd like to know what, let me know)
as for the b20 block, go with a b20z over the b20b, even if the b20b is from japan it's not guaranteed to be as good as a b20z.
b20z has 9.6:1 CR and 17 more chp than the b20b... also has 800rpm higher redline from the factory.
as for block preparation, you will need to cut vtec valve reliefs in the stock pistons, or upgrade to some nicer higher compression pistons, you will need ARP rod bolts at a minimum if you want to rev to 8000rpm safely. the b20 oil pump is said to be the same part number as the itr oil pump, so I don't think you need to upgrade it, but some people say you should.. I have no proof or experience with that part of this. seriously , unless you have a lot of time and money on your hands, it's not worth it. Just sleeve an LS block, it'd be stronger and not that much more expensive
#6
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If money's no object, do the b20 and boost it. Nothing spools a turbo like displacement. Sleeve a b18 or a b20... makes no difference to me, but it would cost just as much for the parts to sleeve and build either one if you're planning on replacing the internals anyway... I say go for it. I just hope that the chassis is worth that to you.
If you're doing this all motor, I have seen someone dyno 240whp with that b20/GS-R setup in a 6g hatch. I thought that was damn impressive. But it looked awfully expensive.
If you're doing this all motor, I have seen someone dyno 240whp with that b20/GS-R setup in a 6g hatch. I thought that was damn impressive. But it looked awfully expensive.