turbo D-series reliability?
12-22-2004, 07:41 PM
#21
USAF C-17 Crewchief
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Washington
Posts: 1,068
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I think I am goind down this road as well, how many miles do you have on your D16Z6?
Also for my info and his, what are some basics to upgrading the motor befor the turbo? I meen, while you have the head off to change the headgasket, should you install a block guard, or do other things like a valve job?
What things can be done to the motor befor the turbo, like now, and I can turbo it this summer?
A complete rebuild would be nice, but what would be a good thing to do to beef up the motor? I was told new water and oil pump, oil cooler, better radiator, and I wanted to know if it would be to much work/money to rebuild the bottom end? Or will a motor with 130k be alright running 8psi?
Headgasket, lower compresion is better for turbo right?
Valve job, steel valves, stiffer springs?
Upgrade Ignition?
Upgrade Fuel and Engine Management (can this be done without running boost?)I wanted to do all of this now, and drive it without boost untill the summer, is it possible? Or should I save the parts up and install everything at once?
Also for my info and his, what are some basics to upgrading the motor befor the turbo? I meen, while you have the head off to change the headgasket, should you install a block guard, or do other things like a valve job?
What things can be done to the motor befor the turbo, like now, and I can turbo it this summer?
A complete rebuild would be nice, but what would be a good thing to do to beef up the motor? I was told new water and oil pump, oil cooler, better radiator, and I wanted to know if it would be to much work/money to rebuild the bottom end? Or will a motor with 130k be alright running 8psi?
Headgasket, lower compresion is better for turbo right?
Valve job, steel valves, stiffer springs?
Upgrade Ignition?
Upgrade Fuel and Engine Management (can this be done without running boost?)I wanted to do all of this now, and drive it without boost untill the summer, is it possible? Or should I save the parts up and install everything at once?
12-23-2004, 05:29 AM
#22
college kid
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: New York
Posts: 2,000
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
new headgasket(oem or thicker aftermarket)
arp headstuds
lower compression is good for boost
if you can afford rebuilding ur head sure, if not just use a valve grinding compound and have it acid dipped after. then get new valve seals and cam seals, valve cover gasket etc.
new intake mani gasket, tb gasket, exhaust mani gasket
new water and oil pump are good ideas. depending on where u are oil cooler too.(if ur in the north its not too big a deal cuz its mostly cold)
better radiator if u can or a more powerfull slim fan is helpful
new dizzy, cap, rotor, wires, plugs are good idea
u can upgrade ur engine management(ie 450/440cc injectors and hack or uberdata) and it can be done on a stock engine but u have to know what your doing. hack and uber will allow u to adjust timing and a/f. after u boost you'll have to re-adjust them
goodluck man!
turbo d's for life
arp headstuds
lower compression is good for boost
if you can afford rebuilding ur head sure, if not just use a valve grinding compound and have it acid dipped after. then get new valve seals and cam seals, valve cover gasket etc.
new intake mani gasket, tb gasket, exhaust mani gasket
new water and oil pump are good ideas. depending on where u are oil cooler too.(if ur in the north its not too big a deal cuz its mostly cold)
better radiator if u can or a more powerfull slim fan is helpful
new dizzy, cap, rotor, wires, plugs are good idea
u can upgrade ur engine management(ie 450/440cc injectors and hack or uberdata) and it can be done on a stock engine but u have to know what your doing. hack and uber will allow u to adjust timing and a/f. after u boost you'll have to re-adjust them
goodluck man!
turbo d's for life
12-23-2004, 06:16 AM
#23
One of the original OG's
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 1,429
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yes, I would recommend a block guard, OEM head gasket, new water pump, toda timing belt, and oil cooler. But no more of build up should be nessecary if your only planning on 200HP and your motor has been taken care of. Now if your motor has 100k + then you might need a more intense rebuild.
12-23-2004, 08:30 PM
#26
USAF C-17 Crewchief
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Washington
Posts: 1,068
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
So...What would you say a more Intense rebuild would be? And how much do you think it would cost if I did all the labor? And how much machine work/takin stuff to the shop to have it done, would I have to do? Whats an estimated price range?
I already know I want to upgrade the clutch and light flywheel.
I wanted to upgrade my suspension befor I did my motor, but should I start buying things for a rebuild befor I buy my suspension stuff? I cant spend much at one time on my car, more like 100 a week, if that. So what sould I start to get? If somone can make me a list, that would be great, and maybe a place to look for the parts...
I already know I want to upgrade the clutch and light flywheel.
I wanted to upgrade my suspension befor I did my motor, but should I start buying things for a rebuild befor I buy my suspension stuff? I cant spend much at one time on my car, more like 100 a week, if that. So what sould I start to get? If somone can make me a list, that would be great, and maybe a place to look for the parts...
12-24-2004, 05:17 AM
#27
One of the original OG's
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 1,429
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
A more intese rebuild would be at least:
Get your short block dipped and then change the Oil pump, oil strainer, bearings, rods, add a block guard, new pistons (If your in there you might as well do it), timing belt, water pump, a gasket set from the block up (NAPA has a good gasket set), clutch, flywheel resurface, and get your head rebuilt (I had my D16Z6 done for $130.00 using the original parts) and the guy said my valvetrain was in great condition considering the head had over 200k on it. It cost me $250.00 (very cheap) to get my B16A head rebuilt with a skunk2 valvetrain and a mild P&P. If you shop around some of the domestic shops will charge you a lot less because they are not used to charging what import shops charge (they love to rape the customers).
The assembly can be done yourself. When I did the D16Z6 for my hatch (sold
) I had help from a friend who builds honda engines. When I rebuild my B16A (the second time
) I did everything myself. The hardest part is putting the head on the block and getting everything timed. There are some trick to getting the timing right and having the head slightly off time so the valves don't hit the block. You will definately need either a good work bench (waist level unless your tall) or preferably an engine stand. I think all of this could be done for around $1,500.00 if you do it yourself. Just save that $100.00 a week and do everything at once. Trust me, the first time I make the mistake of doing everything piece meal and it was a bitch because I would forget something and have to run back and forth to the autoparts store and that sucks if your working on your car on a Sunday. For my hatch I went out and bought every little thing i could think of (including my ebay goldmine which was a brand spanking new OEM short block assembly for $390.00) and it wokred out great. It's a project so just sit down and write out a game plan (I am currently finishing my CRX so trust me, I know projects). Start from disassemblt and work your way back through reassembly. You have to really plan this out or you might forget something important. believe it or not I forgot to buy the ARP head bolts and was all ready for reassembly but I had to wait a week for them to be shipped because I could'nt find them locally. I had a list that I checked off as I went along but forgot to add them to the list. But you will learn a lot from a project like this so please plan carefully and do it. Not enough guys nowadays are willing to take on aproject, they would rather pay someone else to do it.
Get your short block dipped and then change the Oil pump, oil strainer, bearings, rods, add a block guard, new pistons (If your in there you might as well do it), timing belt, water pump, a gasket set from the block up (NAPA has a good gasket set), clutch, flywheel resurface, and get your head rebuilt (I had my D16Z6 done for $130.00 using the original parts) and the guy said my valvetrain was in great condition considering the head had over 200k on it. It cost me $250.00 (very cheap) to get my B16A head rebuilt with a skunk2 valvetrain and a mild P&P. If you shop around some of the domestic shops will charge you a lot less because they are not used to charging what import shops charge (they love to rape the customers).
The assembly can be done yourself. When I did the D16Z6 for my hatch (sold
) I had help from a friend who builds honda engines. When I rebuild my B16A (the second time ) I did everything myself. The hardest part is putting the head on the block and getting everything timed. There are some trick to getting the timing right and having the head slightly off time so the valves don't hit the block. You will definately need either a good work bench (waist level unless your tall) or preferably an engine stand. I think all of this could be done for around $1,500.00 if you do it yourself. Just save that $100.00 a week and do everything at once. Trust me, the first time I make the mistake of doing everything piece meal and it was a bitch because I would forget something and have to run back and forth to the autoparts store and that sucks if your working on your car on a Sunday. For my hatch I went out and bought every little thing i could think of (including my ebay goldmine which was a brand spanking new OEM short block assembly for $390.00) and it wokred out great. It's a project so just sit down and write out a game plan (I am currently finishing my CRX so trust me, I know projects). Start from disassemblt and work your way back through reassembly. You have to really plan this out or you might forget something important. believe it or not I forgot to buy the ARP head bolts and was all ready for reassembly but I had to wait a week for them to be shipped because I could'nt find them locally. I had a list that I checked off as I went along but forgot to add them to the list. But you will learn a lot from a project like this so please plan carefully and do it. Not enough guys nowadays are willing to take on aproject, they would rather pay someone else to do it.
12-24-2004, 09:09 AM
#28
turning u inside out
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: cortland, ohio
Posts: 2,545
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i wouldnt worry about floating heads. just do a compression test and if the numbers are consistent, youll be fine. there are some crazy fawkers out there running 12psi on stock internals and running hard with uberdata.
and dont buy a piece of shit kit, build your own= cheaper, more power, you learn alot more about your car and set up
also, i wouldnt get a lightened flywheel for turbo. just run the xtss clutch and have your stock flywheel resurfaced and youll be fine.
and dont buy a piece of shit kit, build your own= cheaper, more power, you learn alot more about your car and set up
also, i wouldnt get a lightened flywheel for turbo. just run the xtss clutch and have your stock flywheel resurfaced and youll be fine.
12-24-2004, 10:34 PM
#29
USAF C-17 Crewchief
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Washington
Posts: 1,068
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Why would I not want a lighter flywheel and a better clutch? Wont lightening the flywheel be better? I have never heard of a lighter flywheel being a bad thing? Wont it help the transfer of power from the crank to the wheels?