So l blew the head gasket in my dx eg6 and I found a vx swap for $150. I had to get it. Now other than the two wires for the vtec that I have to add there is and emmitions box that came with the swap. Can I bypass it? its a black box that attaches to the fire wall. One vacume hose goes to the IM and the other goes to the coffee canister. It also has a plug that I have no Idea where it goes. please help.

 

stop copying me....

 

dooooooood, why transplant a lower hp engine in place of your higher hp engine. Just fix the dang head gasket and save yourself the trouble of doing all that. The VX motor is a wiring nightmare. The vx has a different engine harness than all other civics, period. Fixing the head gasket is easier than swapping a D15z1 into a D15B7 car.

 

you can not bypass it if you use the P07(VX) ECU.
that box runs the EGR valve stuff, also there is the 5 wire O2 sensor to run. From DX to VX you would have to run 6 wires from the ECU to their respective locations under the hood.
If you have a '92 DX or the VX engine harness it would make it easier.

IMO the VX engine is great for fuel mileage but not much else.

 

I get 44mpg with a DX motor and a CX gearbox (same as VX). What does a VX get?

I think the mpg of these low-torque lightweight engines has more to do with the gear ratios than the power output/number of valves. You're installing an experimental 8-valve 1.5L engine in place of a no-fuss 16v. The head casting on both are identical. The valve bores and sizes are nearly identical. The 16v head flows better. Those are just facts. I just don't want you to be disappointed if the car is a lot slower when you're done with it. A DX is 300lbs heavier, and that engine is 10% less powerful.

You'll need that P07 ecu to make it idle right. You have to keep the egr functional like Relic1 said.

You can't change the intake manifold, throttle body, or AICV parts between them and ever expect it to idle right. All of those parts have significantly smaller bores on the VX, and thought it would be nice to keep the big stuff, it's all matched to the ECU.

Your exhaust is totally different.

VX's have an oil cooler, so the coolant lines are different than your DX.

VX's don't have power steering, so you'll need to change your crank pulley and PS stuff over to the other motor if it's equipped on your DX.

I just think you should reconsider the swap if you haven't started because you can buy an engine gasket set for $90, a new set of rings (provided the block doesn't need any machining) for $60, and a new set of ARP head bolts (cost about as much as stock) for $60. If the head needs work (you'll know after you get it off and inspect it if it does), Napa will rebuild it with a basic valve job for about $100. Add $100 for new timing belt parts and a water pump. Re-use everything else and bolt it back together. Good for another 60-90k trouble-free miles, keep your power, and no car-hacking BS or other $ to spend on exhaust/ECU/wiring to make it fit.

If you've already started this project, I wish you the best of luck and hope that you already know this. So aside from that heads-up, other people here have done that swap, and can give you more info than I can. You're in the right place for help.

 

Where is the EGR valve plug at on the wiring harness? anyone have pics.
Are the wire colors on the harness the same as the ones on the EGR plug?

I don't have power stearing and a complete engine for $150 with 100k less miles is a hell of a deal, I think.

 

that plug sits all by itself. Strange little plug, I still have the plug and wires in my VX, just tucked behind the brake booster hose to keep it out of the way. The box for the unit sits just to the passenger side of the brake booster on two 8mm studs.

to respond to Jafro's responce a little....
I used to pull 35-45mpg in town depending on how I drove. The highest I ever saw was 62.5mpg on the highway and I drove like a grandma. It took a lot of will power to do that.

the D15Z1 is a 16valve engine. If you'd like proof the manual and parts diagrams for the engine lists 8 intake and 8 exhaust valves per engine. I had 195K miles on mine before I swapped and it never burned a drop of oil. A set of axles, two timing belts & water pump changes, an O2 sensor and regular fluid changes is all I ever did to it. And I have a '92, the first year for the VX.

my VX didn't have an oil cooler, and the exhaust is identical from the typical cat under engine position back. just smaller, I mean really really small, tooth pick small.

other than all that, I'm agreeing with Jafro. IMO the VX engine is a waste of time. Rebuilding your CX would result in a better setup in the end. You can even up your compression and fuel pressure a little to get some more power out of it.
If you insist on doing this, I'll help you out if I can. But it's not going to be easy at times.

 

The CX and VX exhausts are identical. The exhaust for a DX engine is different from the CX/VX's manifold flange, all the way through the b-pipe. The catalytic converter is bolted to the exhaust manifold on the front-facing side of the motor. The DX/LX has a pipe bolted to the manifold that runs to a cat under the car.

I noticed that my flanges were all different sizes and bolt patterns between the two, and I wound up having to weld a straight pipe from the end of an 88 CRX downpipe - to the chopped-off flange of the B-pipe to get me by. I need to replace the whole exhaust from the manifold to the tailpipe with DX parts in order to make it right. I can't make the CX stuff fit, and I don't want to.

I'm sorry about what that manual told you with the VX engine. It really is only 8 valves. Take one apart. They make 92hp at the crank. The B7 makes 104 and a lot more torque... and that's without i-vtec. The 1.6L sohc vtec does have 16 valves, but it makes ~130-135hp. That would be a worthwhile swap IMO. I'd go through all the hassle for a 30% power gain if I could get one for what they're really worth.

$100 is damn cheap. I can understand that because my DX motor was free. I wen't with the low-cost alternative as well. I'm sure there's someone out there that will sell you their B7 for that.

 

Technically, the VX is a 16V, however it works like a 12v at low RPM and a 16v at high because of the VTEC-E. Im not sure where u got the 8v from. Only the CX came in an 8v configuration.