Old problem coming back to haunt me
08-24-2004, 03:05 PM
#11
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Originally Posted by 92eg6
so u think i should try the fix or just suck up $50 and get a new one?
Originally Posted by Running925
can that relay in anyway limit a vehicle from getting spark. weather it not be grounded or not be working properly??
long answer....There's actually two relays in the case....in an OBD1 car is it supplies power to the fuel pump on one relay, and power to the injectors, IACvalve, EVAP purge valve and heater for the O2 with the other relay.... there is also two wires (A13 & B1) that run to the ECU that tell the ECU that the Ignition is on... so the ECU may never think that the key is in run and stop the spark.
08-24-2004, 03:28 PM
#12
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Originally Posted by Relic1
depends on how good you are with a soldering iron or if you have a friend that is good with one. Then it's free to do. Other wise fork over the $50 and send your old one to me.
short answer.... yes it could.
long answer....There's actually two relays in the case....in an OBD1 car is it supplies power to the fuel pump on one relay, and power to the injectors, IACvalve, EVAP purge valve and heater for the O2 with the other relay.... there is also two wires (A13 & B1) that run to the ECU that tell the ECU that the Ignition is on... so the ECU may never think that the key is in run and stop the spark.
short answer.... yes it could.
long answer....There's actually two relays in the case....in an OBD1 car is it supplies power to the fuel pump on one relay, and power to the injectors, IACvalve, EVAP purge valve and heater for the O2 with the other relay.... there is also two wires (A13 & B1) that run to the ECU that tell the ECU that the Ignition is on... so the ECU may never think that the key is in run and stop the spark.
08-25-2004, 08:24 AM
#13
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Originally Posted by b16aEGcivic
Grade A 110% great response to the question...couldnt have said it any better. I hope to see you posting more around HAN you seem to know your shit.
08-25-2004, 11:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Relic1
depends on how good you are with a soldering iron or if you have a friend that is good with one. Then it's free to do. Other wise fork over the $50 and send your old one to me.
short answer.... yes it could.
long answer....There's actually two relays in the case....in an OBD1 car is it supplies power to the fuel pump on one relay, and power to the injectors, IACvalve, EVAP purge valve and heater for the O2 with the other relay.... there is also two wires (A13 & B1) that run to the ECU that tell the ECU that the Ignition is on... so the ECU may never think that the key is in run and stop the spark.
short answer.... yes it could.
long answer....There's actually two relays in the case....in an OBD1 car is it supplies power to the fuel pump on one relay, and power to the injectors, IACvalve, EVAP purge valve and heater for the O2 with the other relay.... there is also two wires (A13 & B1) that run to the ECU that tell the ECU that the Ignition is on... so the ECU may never think that the key is in run and stop the spark.
ok! humm.. tackle this one then.. if the relays are in good shape & grounded properly but the fuel system wasn't connected through it properly.. could that hinder the car from getting spark?? in any way! (imageine nothing stock.)
08-25-2004, 02:57 PM
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you lost me with that one....
the main relay has 7 wires/pins to it...
1-grn/yel- to ECU (A7&A8)
2-blu/wht-hot in start only
3-blk-constant ground
4-yel/grn-to fuel pump
5-yel/blk-hot in run or start
6-yel/blk-to ECU(B1&A25) and passenger side firewall connetor with lots of yel/blk wires
7-yel/wht-hot at all times
**edit**
I looked through some of your posts, you have a B18A1 with the D16Z6 harness. cranks all day, no spark.
double check (with the ignition in run) there is 12volts on both yel/blk wires.
are you getting any codes set?
the main relay has 7 wires/pins to it...
1-grn/yel- to ECU (A7&A8)
2-blu/wht-hot in start only
3-blk-constant ground
4-yel/grn-to fuel pump
5-yel/blk-hot in run or start
6-yel/blk-to ECU(B1&A25) and passenger side firewall connetor with lots of yel/blk wires
7-yel/wht-hot at all times
**edit**
I looked through some of your posts, you have a B18A1 with the D16Z6 harness. cranks all day, no spark.
double check (with the ignition in run) there is 12volts on both yel/blk wires.
are you getting any codes set?
08-26-2004, 06:38 AM
#16
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as of now i've got EVERYTHING that goes in the 90teg in my 95civic body. including interior / exterior harness's / ecu / ect.
My question is that if i didn't have the fuel pump connected through the relay, would that stop me from getting SPARK?
My question is that if i didn't have the fuel pump connected through the relay, would that stop me from getting SPARK?
08-26-2004, 07:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Running925
as of now i've got EVERYTHING that goes in the 90teg in my 95civic body. including interior / exterior harness's / ecu / ect.
My question is that if i didn't have the fuel pump connected through the relay, would that stop me from getting SPARK?
My question is that if i didn't have the fuel pump connected through the relay, would that stop me from getting SPARK?
isn't a 90 teg OBD0? are you running it with an OBD1 ECU or the Teg's factory OBD0 ECU?
08-26-2004, 07:42 AM
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ok, totally different road to travel then.
I've been talking about the OBD1 stuff.
cels of any kind? bad CYP/CKP/TDC sensors?
are you getting tach signal when you crank it? (IE tach moving a little)
I've been talking about the OBD1 stuff.
cels of any kind? bad CYP/CKP/TDC sensors?
are you getting tach signal when you crank it? (IE tach moving a little)