Hi guys,

got a B18B1 and have had some random problems with the car starting, and then dying suddenly (only happened 3 times in the past month or so).

Also, today, it started that sometimes at idle, the RPM needle will jump like 1000rpm, but the engine itself is not reving. ...the rpm gaugage is like having a spasm.

So, I was told that sometimes that the rotor button, so I replaced the cap and rotor, and nothing has changed.

It also sounds a little bit "squealy" under the hood, like maybe a slight tea-kettle sound? or a faint belt sound? I dunno how to describe it, but I'm PRETTY sure it's not the sound of my intake.

Any ideas? I'm thinking it could be the distributor....if so, how much do they run and how hard is it to change on the b18?

- Nathan

 

Sounds like what happened to my distributor. What's fun is when you start throwing codes for the CKP and CYP sensors. Those are inside the distributor, and not easily replaceable. The squealing you hear is probably the bearing. It's a wet bearing with oil holes that get oil from the cylinder head. If those got clogged, it's hosed. The bearing is not replaceable. If the distributor doesn't rotate freely by hand with it off the car, it's hosed, so take it off the car and try to turn it.

My distributor went crunch crunch crunch snap crackle pop within 40 miles of the squealing started. It seized as it was pulled into the bay, and fortunately I didn't break my cam in half. Don't forget what that thing's bolted to.

PS: easy to change. 3 bolts and a wiring harness plug or 2. Don't mix up your plug wires, just leave them bolted to your new cap, and move the rotor to the new distributor. That way everything will be lined up right if you note it's position before removing the bad one. The distributor is offset-keyed, and it can only go on one way unlike domestic pushrod motors or Toyotas.

 

okay, so I should probably change that out asap. I guess I gotta find a place to get one. Is there any "do nots" about say, autozone or advanced auto parts distributors?

I can order one at the dealer, but that's a good 40 minute drive away. I guess I should get a brand new one, and not a remanufactured, etc....although, I plan to do a ls/vtec next summer - does the GSR distributor match the LS one?

- Nathan

 

No. The GSR distributor is VTEC. It's wired differently.

Get a remanufactured one with a lifetime warranty from your average parts store. The new Honda dealer part won't have a warranty. It will also cost 3x more than the average parts store will, too.

Take the one you've already got in with you when you buy your remanufactured distributor. Make sure they're the same unit. Make sure the one you get is the one from your engine's donor car. Swap over any screws or rotor button/dust shields while you're in there getting the new one so you don't have to pay core charges or come back to the parts store later (i.e. bring a phillips and a flat-head with you just in case).

No point in spending new part money on it when you'll be swapping it out with a different engine/distributor later, right?

 

as long as it lasts long enough to get me through to next summer and doesn't blow up .

Thanks for the advice....I'll deffinately get on that tommorow

 

Don't be surprised if they're $220. Unless you have a BAP-GEON (check your white pages) parts store around your area, you'll probably have to fork out at least that for a replacement unless you find a used one. The coil, distributor, TDC sensor, cylinder position sensor, ignitor and 2 bearings are in that thing. That's why they cost so much. My local Honda dealer is $640 if you walk in and ask for a new one (and you're not a mechanic reselling the part to a customer).

 

out of curiosity, does the timing need to be reset when the distributor is replaced? and, how is the timing set on the B18B1?

- Nathan

 

anyone, or did I just get lost in the mass of posts

- Nathan

 

You need a timing light. Most small garages will do it while you wait for a small... I mean... small fee. It takes only a minute to do it if the car is already warmed up.

Maybe someone on the list has a timing light near you and doesn't mind helping out.

All you do is connect the + and - terminals to your battery... put the probe on the #1 spark plug wire (closest to timing belt), and aim it at your crank pulley. Whatever the process is for lining up the marks... you should check a service manual for (with the donor car's make/model info of course). Once you've done it, you'll think it's easy, but if you don't feel comfortable doing it or don't have the tools, your car will be driveable after the swap, it just might not be making peak power or get you very good gas mileage.