Finally starting to come together!
04-29-2004, 08:35 PM
#1
Your Powder Coater
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Finally starting to come together!
As some of you may know.. i've been working on my car since the first snow fall of winter...
Swaping D16z6 for a fully built B18A1 (obd1 to obd0 conversion for engine)
Swaping Auto to Manual
& Turbo all over the winter & ready for this summer.
New suspension
I've finally droped the motor in & feel the biggest weight lifted off my shoulders.. i don't have everything hooked up yet but at least my swap is sitting in it's new home!
I did run into a lot of problems so far including
Pressure plate missing a tooth
Pressure plate bolts snaping when i want torquing them down to spec
Bell housing top 2 bolt holes were stripped
A snapped off bolt in the block from driver side motor mount
broken main pulley
ect.
I can't wait to finish this project!
I've got a strange question that i want answered though..
1. for what reason did the pressure plate bolts snap when torqing them to spec? (arn't they supposed to be some really intence bolts?)
Tips:
1. B18A1, when dropping into car with tranny connected would never fit in with the crank pulley already connected!
2. passenger side of motor has to be droped in & mounted first because of the tight squeeze!
3. get someone else to operate the crain while your aligning your engine... trust me.. not easy to squeeze that bish in there by your self!
Swaping D16z6 for a fully built B18A1 (obd1 to obd0 conversion for engine)
Swaping Auto to Manual
& Turbo all over the winter & ready for this summer.
New suspension
I've finally droped the motor in & feel the biggest weight lifted off my shoulders.. i don't have everything hooked up yet but at least my swap is sitting in it's new home!
I did run into a lot of problems so far including
Pressure plate missing a tooth
Pressure plate bolts snaping when i want torquing them down to spec
Bell housing top 2 bolt holes were stripped
A snapped off bolt in the block from driver side motor mount
broken main pulley
ect.
I can't wait to finish this project!
I've got a strange question that i want answered though..
1. for what reason did the pressure plate bolts snap when torqing them to spec? (arn't they supposed to be some really intence bolts?)
Tips:
1. B18A1, when dropping into car with tranny connected would never fit in with the crank pulley already connected!
2. passenger side of motor has to be droped in & mounted first because of the tight squeeze!
3. get someone else to operate the crain while your aligning your engine... trust me.. not easy to squeeze that bish in there by your self!
04-30-2004, 04:59 AM
#4
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Hey man I know how it is to run into problems like that ....SUX big time !!!
But as far as the bolts..... You might want to check the torque wrench you're using...
After I snapped a couple of bolts I got curios and had my torque wrench calibrated and it was 10 LBS off....and this was a craftsman ...a brand new one which was a couple of days old drom sears.....soooo you might want to get that checked out before you break something else
But as far as the bolts..... You might want to check the torque wrench you're using...
After I snapped a couple of bolts I got curios and had my torque wrench calibrated and it was 10 LBS off....and this was a craftsman ...a brand new one which was a couple of days old drom sears.....soooo you might want to get that checked out before you break something else
04-30-2004, 05:34 AM
#5
Your Powder Coater
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Originally Posted by 93DituneEX
Looking pretty good dude, sucks you're running into so many problems though. Thats a pretty massive turbo you got their, what kind is it?
Probly gonna be running 10-12lbs daily & 18-20 at the track.
04-30-2004, 06:15 AM
#6
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That's one great lookin' LS motor. That's going to be a bad ass car when you're done, too. What pistons did you use?
The best advice I can give you for optimal "bolt performance" is to buy a metric tap and die set. Wherever there are any threaded holes, tap and chase the threads, then blow them out with compressed air. Dirty, rusty, or otherwise oxidized metal creates a lot of friction when you're torqueing bolts down. The condition of the bolt is extremely important, as is the actual grade of the bolt. Many bolts are disposable and not re-usable. I think you're always supposed to use new bolts for the flywheel.
If they were new bolts, then maybe the threads on them were wrong.
PS: I'm glad ACT hooked you up. After your post, I decided not to re-use my 7k old ACT2600. Sad. I feel like I ju$t bought that thing. I'm not firing any springs through the side of my tranny. I'm going to have to get another one. My best friend's galant vr-4 just fragged his ACT2600 exactly the way yours went. His clutch pedal went soft, but the springs are still inside the trans case, and that's really not a good thing either.
The best advice I can give you for optimal "bolt performance" is to buy a metric tap and die set. Wherever there are any threaded holes, tap and chase the threads, then blow them out with compressed air. Dirty, rusty, or otherwise oxidized metal creates a lot of friction when you're torqueing bolts down. The condition of the bolt is extremely important, as is the actual grade of the bolt. Many bolts are disposable and not re-usable. I think you're always supposed to use new bolts for the flywheel.
If they were new bolts, then maybe the threads on them were wrong.
PS: I'm glad ACT hooked you up. After your post, I decided not to re-use my 7k old ACT2600. Sad. I feel like I ju$t bought that thing. I'm not firing any springs through the side of my tranny. I'm going to have to get another one. My best friend's galant vr-4 just fragged his ACT2600 exactly the way yours went. His clutch pedal went soft, but the springs are still inside the trans case, and that's really not a good thing either.
04-30-2004, 09:44 AM
#7
Your Powder Coater
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Originally Posted by Jafro
That's one great lookin' LS motor. That's going to be a bad ass car when you're done, too. What pistons did you use?
The best advice I can give you for optimal "bolt performance" is to buy a metric tap and die set. Wherever there are any threaded holes, tap and chase the threads, then blow them out with compressed air. Dirty, rusty, or otherwise oxidized metal creates a lot of friction when you're torqueing bolts down. The condition of the bolt is extremely important, as is the actual grade of the bolt. Many bolts are disposable and not re-usable. I think you're always supposed to use new bolts for the flywheel.
If they were new bolts, then maybe the threads on them were wrong.
PS: I'm glad ACT hooked you up. After your post, I decided not to re-use my 7k old ACT2600. Sad. I feel like I ju$t bought that thing. I'm not firing any springs through the side of my tranny. I'm going to have to get another one. My best friend's galant vr-4 just fragged his ACT2600 exactly the way yours went. His clutch pedal went soft, but the springs are still inside the trans case, and that's really not a good thing either.
The best advice I can give you for optimal "bolt performance" is to buy a metric tap and die set. Wherever there are any threaded holes, tap and chase the threads, then blow them out with compressed air. Dirty, rusty, or otherwise oxidized metal creates a lot of friction when you're torqueing bolts down. The condition of the bolt is extremely important, as is the actual grade of the bolt. Many bolts are disposable and not re-usable. I think you're always supposed to use new bolts for the flywheel.
If they were new bolts, then maybe the threads on them were wrong.
PS: I'm glad ACT hooked you up. After your post, I decided not to re-use my 7k old ACT2600. Sad. I feel like I ju$t bought that thing. I'm not firing any springs through the side of my tranny. I'm going to have to get another one. My best friend's galant vr-4 just fragged his ACT2600 exactly the way yours went. His clutch pedal went soft, but the springs are still inside the trans case, and that's really not a good thing either.
Pistons = Aris
weird thing bout those bolts is that there was no rust at all in the thread or on the bolts & the torque wrench was just tested before i started this project. Really strange.. I was lucky enough to have a friend that has his motor out of his integra.. (same motor) so i stole his clutch bolts so i didn't have to wait for them & ordered him some new ones! At least they are in now!
I still have a lot to get done as far as connecting all the electrical stuff / installing cap & rotor / rear motor mount / shift linkage / petals / Clutch cable / shifter / axles / Suspension / ect.
I'll make sure i keep postin pix & some examples.. if anyone wants a how to on what ever i have left just lemme kno & i'll grab some detailed pix while i'm workin on everything this weekend!
04-30-2004, 03:27 PM
#9
Still here... sorta...
I really hope you're going to derice that thing too. :db:
I'm a little concerned that you put the motor in without a valve cover, I know yours is nice and perdy, but... kinda risky. I would have left the exhaust mani off too... just me though.
Glad you got it in there. Any idea when you'll be back on the road?
04-30-2004, 03:52 PM
#10
it's my D in a B
lol, trying to match the paint-scheme of your avatar?
Good luck with the rest of it mang! Runing into a bunch of little problems is the nature of the beast, but the most important thing is to have a good attitude about it; and you obviously do. :exnbp:
Good luck with the rest of it mang! Runing into a bunch of little problems is the nature of the beast, but the most important thing is to have a good attitude about it; and you obviously do. :exnbp: