92eg6

Please someone give me some help

Can someone give me instructions on installing factory sway bars on a 92 civic CX, the cx doesnt have holes in the LCA, but i dont know how to install them period, can someone help me out with detailed instructions?

white_n_slow

First, (as we already covered ) get appropriate lower control arms (94+ integra any, EX w/ rear sway, SI/EX front).

Do you also have the D-brackets and bushings? You'll need those too... and endlink hardware. If you've got all that stuff, proceed.

REAR:

-Jack up the rear of the car and place securely on jackstands and remove rear wheels.
-It might help to remove the axleback portion of you exhaust to make more room to work
-remove the rear lower control arms: there should be 3 bolts on each, one attatched to the trailing arm, one to the bottom of the shock, and one to the subframe. These bolts are bastards (especially the shock one), so be sure you have a big-ass breaker bar or an impact wrench
-put in your new LCAs, should be pretty straight forward. They're marked L and R.
-take a look at your subframe where the D-brackets are supposed to go... it should look like the attatched image, if not, you may need to enlarge one of the holes w/ a drill
-attatch swaybar and endlinks to the LCAs (in your fancy new LCA holes ) If you're not sure you have all the hardware, stop by the honda or acura dealer and ask to look at the parts screen for a 94+ teg or 92-95 civic ex sedan... if you don't have all the bolts, they'll give you extras for a few bucks.
-put the D-bushings over the swaybar
-put the D-brackets over the bushings and bolt up to the subframe in the holes pictured
-make sure everything is torqued down, check over everything. Lower car, youre done.

If you were installing a bigger rear sway, a reinforcement kit would be necessary, but with your dinky little one, the stock bracket will do just fine. My fingers are tired, I'll get back to the front in a minute h:

:edit: oops, forgot the picture

white_n_slow

Ok, FRONT:

This will be a little trickier because the front LCAs are more of a pain (balljoint instead of bolt).

Again, make sure you have endlinks, endlink bushings, D brackets and bushings. You'll also need a couple bolts for the D-bracket, and nuts for the endlink.

-Jack up front of car, place securely on jack stands. Remove front wheels.
-remove the cotter pin from the castle nut under the balljoint. Loosen the nut a ways, but don't take it all the way off.
-Jack up the area under the front hub/rotor a little bit (not too far, just so theres some tension).
-take a big hammer, and bash your LCA until the balljoint pops loose
-then you can unbolt the rest of the LCA. There will be one bolt for the damper fork, and two attatching the LCA to the frame.
-put on your snazzy new LCA's. You can re-use your balljoint and boot if you didn't damage it (just be carefull with that hammer ). They will go together just like your old ones.
-unbolt your cat (or if you have a exhaust manifold integrated cat, like me, just unbolt the catback from the header collector pipe)
-disconnect your shift linkage. You should be able to do this with a punch and hammer... search, some people have other ways of doing this too.
-snake the swaybar into place roughly through the opening in the exhaust/shift linkage.
-attatch the swaybar to the LCAs via the endlinks. It should look like this

nut
bushing
swaybar
bushing
-----
bushing
LCA
bushing
nut

-slip the D-bushings over the bar
-slip the D-brackets over the bushings and bolt up to the subframe. They bolt up to a couple little holes just ahead of the rear LCA mount (the big fat one)
-double check everything, make sure its all torqued down. Put the wheels back on.

youre set!




:edit: this is your third thread on the same topic in a couple days. Since youre new, please read the TOS (at the bar near the top of your screen). Duplicate threads are a no-no. No biggie, just no need to post 3 threads on the same thing

92eg6

ok i understand about the TOS, but i wasnt getting the answers that i needed. but your 2 posts here were above and beyond what i expected... so thank you.

i am attaching a picture of the sway bars with what i get with them, i ordered poly bushings for front and back + front poly endlink kit

tell me if you see anything i might need....
thanks for all your help

white_n_slow

No problem, glad to help

Do you know if the bushing set you ordered comes with new D-brackets (the metal part)? If not, looks like you'll need the front brackets.

:edit: I guess i can't see the picture well enough to tell... you'll need 4 metal D-brackets all together.

Aside from that, I think all you'll need are the two bolts that bolt the rear endlinks to the control arm.

92eg6

i think they do. i want my car to not lean like a b*tch everytime i turn, i got pro kits, my car is the only SOHC that is all stock no internals, just a cx with a d16z6 si, headers intake, custom 2 1/2 pip to greedy exhaust( i know i spelt it wrong) and 15's acura rims. my car runs a 15.3 1/4mile at 92mph. the closest i seen is 15.5.
i thought factory sway bar would be a good upgrade, to start and see how much more i would need instead of jumping to a aftermarket. i think i might get those bullet aluminum rear LCA's they have the hole and lighter and stronger, i also just bought a rear tie bar, do you think i will notice the diffrence and what do you think will be most noticable

white_n_slow

sounds like a pretty nice car.

You'll definitely notice the swaybars. And when you decide to upgrade, you might want to consider Integra Type R OEM swaybars... they're a bit cheaper than most aftermarket ones, and at 24mm front/ 22mm rear, they're all the swaybar you'll ever need. If you wanna drop the cash on aluminum control arms, go ahead, but you'll still need new front ones too. I noticed a significant difference with my rear tie bar... made the car feel more solid in transitions (good for slaloms on the autocross course). But the swaybars will make the biggest difference. the car will feel much more settled around corners, and the steering will be more direct. :thumbup:

92eg6

well the aluminum control arms on ebay are 90 bucks, and the stock ones at HAP are 45 each=90 bucks... so why not just get the aluminum?

what am i going to notice more the front or the back?

92eg6

i saw that ST makes brackets to connect the swaybar to the LCA's in the front. i went to manufacture my own, my impression is that the poly bushings takes most the flex.
i am attaching a pic of the ST bracket and a paint drawing of what i am making

let me know

white_n_slow

I think the ST one only works with ST bars... and most people don't really feel comfortable with those ST brackets. I can't remember off the top of my head, but I think a few have broken. I would trust a home-brew bracket even less. If you're a good welder, and feel comfortable trusting your car (and maybe you) to your part, go for it. But it can be very dangerous when suspension components break at the wrong time... just a warning.

As for the control arms, what brand are the ebay ones? I would trust SPC, but not a knockoff brand. Also you'll want to look at more places than just HAP... check the F/S forums and junkyards too.