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Is 3 inch piping too much?

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Old Mar 2, 2004 | 01:50 PM
  #11  
CiViCex(B16A2)'s Avatar
CiViCex(B16A2)
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1996 Civic EX w/ B16A2
 
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Well i will definately go with the 2.5 inch piping and as for the stroker kit i have seen many street tegs and civics with them. It comes with 4340 forged crank, custom steel billet Crower connecting rods, premium pistons in your choice of bore and compression available from JE, CP, Ross or Arias. Also includes rings, wrist pins, buttons/locks and rod, main and thrust bearings. That will be a very boostable engine. Not too metion the fuel management system, ignition system, boost controller, cams, and cam gears. I can get some serious boost from that especially since the stroker kit will make it a 2.0 liter. Will i need an intake manifold?
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Old Mar 2, 2004 | 02:02 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by CiViCex(B16A2)
Well i will definately go with the 2.5 inch piping and as for the stroker kit i have seen many street tegs and civics with them. It comes with 4340 forged crank, custom steel billet Crower connecting rods, premium pistons in your choice of bore and compression available from JE, CP, Ross or Arias. Also includes rings, wrist pins, buttons/locks and rod, main and thrust bearings. That will be a very boostable engine. Not too metion the fuel management system, ignition system, boost controller, cams, and cam gears. I can get some serious boost from that especially since the stroker kit will make it a 2.0 liter. Will i need an intake manifold?
Doesn't a stroker kit lengthen the rod thus adding to the durration of the piston being at its peak and raise the compression?

If so, it's not a good idea for boost.

Components are not what to look at when going FI; although, you need a good brand for each to be sure they're going to handle the stress. You need to be more interested in specs like compression, bore, duration, etc.
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Old Mar 2, 2004 | 02:13 PM
  #13  
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The rod/stroke of a two litre engine built on a B16A block is going to be worse then a two litre engine built on a B18* pattern block due to the B16A's shorter deck height. The worse rod/stroke ratio means more parasitic engine drag and wear, not a good thing.

The forged crank is also a very expensive ($1500) option to the crower kit. Not really worth it unless you plan to build a super-powerful engine. To build a B16A with the 84mm bore you need to get 2l out of it, it needs to be resleeved and bored anyway.

Oh, an WCS: stroker kits make the crank taller and the rods typically shorter overall.
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Old Mar 2, 2004 | 02:17 PM
  #14  
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h:

But it does create a longer stroke, correct?
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Old Mar 2, 2004 | 02:18 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by westcoaststyle
h:

But it does create a longer stroke, correct?
I think so. :chuckles:
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Old Mar 2, 2004 | 02:28 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by westcoaststyle
h:

But it does create a longer stroke, correct?

Yes, but that actually decreases piston dwell time at TDC.
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Old Mar 2, 2004 | 03:00 PM
  #17  
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plus the fact that the b16a has a damn near perfect ratio, thats why you can build them to rev like a son of a bitch. personally I would go with some different rods and pistons to drop down the compression and get it sleeved if you get a chance...all this stroker business is nonsense...also you only need to buy one headER not headers h: and I agree that buying the header and intake is stupid if you plan on going turbo down the road, I would just use that money towards the turbo project savings....:sad: that is all
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