ordered the ventshades :thumbup: should be here within a week

if anyone wants to know, they're from A&J-racing.com, like $130 for the sedans, $120 for coupes/hatches.

some other stuff:

thinking about a vanity plate

what do you guys think about:
- f0d0h0
- Yoink
- bd mofo
- rsk tkr
- hey fu2

thats all I could think of h: $40 a year isn't too bad.

lately, I've been noticing this clicking sound from the rear of the car during braking. Are these the shocks going/gone out? Sounds like a steady click-click-click, slows till I stop. But I'm pretty sure at 103xxx miles (35,000 lowered), that they're probably blown.

:af:

 

woot, congrats. Is that price just for EKs? I guess I could check the site huh? :exnbp:

Plate = BAKED :chuckles:

 

Could it be your wheel bearings? I don't know, but I don't think your dampers would be making the clicking noise. When dampers go out, they get bouncy.

 

I concur

 

I didn't look at a&j's eg section. Just the ek group :exnbp:

Quote:

Plate = BAKED :chuckles:

18secferio = arrested :db:

besides, i need to quit that shit eventually....


wheel bearings? h:

I don't know my shit h: x2

 

I just couldn't help it.. haha

I think your plate should be "huh o_O"

 

Ride Quality/Driveline Noise tests:

Does it do it only under braking? Yes=Brakes

Bearings usually either squeal or groan, and sometimes cause the car to pull to one side or another. Front wheel bearings don't usually make noise in a straight line, but do when you're turning. Rear bearings can be diagnosed by raising the rear of the car and spinning the hubs (with the e-brake off). If your discs or drums are held on by the wheel, put the lug nuts back on first. When spun, if there's a spot that slows/stops its rotation, or the wheel doesn't rotate freely, then there could be 2 things wrong. Bearing, or brakes.

Rule the brakes out. Make sure they're in spec (wear specs for the drums/discs are stamped into them), make sure your pads are wearing evenly. Make sure no brake fluid has leaked anywhere around the slave cylinders. Make sure there are no grooves on the braking surface.

Axles usually thump constantly at speed, or rattle when turned hard under load to tell you they're going bad. They can do one without doing the other depending on whether it's the inner or outer joint that's failing.

You usually won't hear shocks and struts that have gone bad unless you hit bumps or develop tire shake from bad treadwear.

If everything's vibrating in your car, you probably have a tire that's out of balance. Sometimes they kick weights off, and 2 oz of weights makes a huge difference at 65mph.

I had a friend develop a clicking sound, and it turned out that he had a plastic bag and a stick wrapped around his suspension. The stick was dragging on the wheel. I got a good laugh from that one because he told me what he knew was the problem, and had aparently never looked at it. It also bent his brake dust shield into the rotor.

 

I'm getting either DING BOM or BOM DING on my license plate.

 

how much do bearings run to replace typiclly?

 

It depends on how patient you are. If you want to press in new bearings, they're cheap. If you want to or have to replace the bearing and hub assembly, it's expensive. I haven't had to change a wheel bearing on your car, so I don't know what it requires. The question is whether or not the hub bearing assembly is rebuildable.

You're going to have to call around for a price quote.