Let me break this into parts:


POSITIONING/SECURING
There is only one place/way to mount them....Mount them so that they are parallel to the gound, parallel to the dash edge, then shove them as far back toward the firewall, and as far to the outside of the car as possible.

Also mount them as even as possible from side to side (meaning make the driver and passenger side mirror images). You will probably want to mount the passenger side first because the heater will give you trouble.

You can use some flat aluminum stock, or even radio backstrapping for the mounting. I'd recommend three mounts, one on each side of the throat, and one near the motor. The horns can't move at all while the car is driving.

DISPERSION CONTROL
Next you will want to create a filler panel that goes between the lower edge of the dash and the top edge of the horn. This couples the horn body to the dash board.

You can make this panel of anything you want (even cardboard will work, but you should cover it with some carpet, head liner material, etc. This panel not only enlarges the size of the horn (adding the dash to it's size), the padding kills some of the "hot" high frequencies and helps to tone them down. These panels will also ensure that you don't get mulitple point sources. If youdon't do this, the output will go between the dash and the fire wall, vibrating a ton of stuff back there, and will come out all over..it will be a mess.

I would also recommend that you use a dash pad for the top of your dash. It will help to kill the reflections between the dash and the windshield and will raise your stage.

WIRING
I hope you got the passives with them, you will need them to use these horns as they are not "true" compression drivers. The drivers have no real impedance by themselves, so there is a lightbulb added to them to creat their impedance, so while you don't need the passives, you will need a separate amplifier channel for them. The passives will also do all of the power matching between the horn and the mid.

So just get your mids, hook them all up. Keep in mind that those passives get VERY hot. The power handling of the system is determined by how you mount them (with the cover on, off or with the cover spaced from the body of the network). You may want to treat them as amplifiers and even add forced cooling.

This happens because of the way that the network must match the input power for the mid and the horn.

There are also some notch filters built in to help smooth out the horns response.

I've never personally heard these horns, they should image well if you mount them properly and complete the install. The mid drivers will work fine in the doors. The cool thing is that the CD1e horn bodies (assuming they are mini horns) are probably the best horn bodies they make. You can attach the CD1 pro or CD2 comp drivers to them. I have the CD1 setup and wished I had a set of CD1e bodies to go with them.

Let me know if you have any more questions....