Originally posted by Tobra
That surprises me, the shop manual should have pretty detailed info. You will need to support the drivetrain, either with a cherry picker, or a jack from below, and have some help, it is definitely a two man job, IMHO. Never done it on a honda, never had a motor or mount go out
They're not THAT bad. You do need to support the drivetrain, I used a cherrypicker, and did them one at a time (very important). If you've got the money, solid urethane replacements a direct swap. If you're talking inserts, its still not a big deal. I supported the transmission pulled the four bolts (17mm) for the left upper mount, greased up the inserts, slid them in, slid it back into place, bolted it down, voila. The upper right is a little harder. Support the engine, then there's two screws (14mm and a 17mm) and two nuts (17mm). Pull those, then pull the mount out. The insert for this is tricky. You've got to press the rubber bushing out. Then you've got to press the metal bushing race out. The bushing is a snap with a hydraulic press. I didn't have a seal driver kit that would fit the race though, so I put the mount in a vice, and knocked it out with a chisel and ball peen hammer. (let me know if you want the details on technique) Then I took a little file and filed a tiny groove along the mount with its thick. This lets air escape. Then you press the new inserts in and drop the mount in. Be sure to use all the torques in your helms manual when reinstalling everything. The rear mount is like your left upper, its just a little harder to get to. You'll have to take out the three bolts on the Y shaped brace, lift the brace up, slide the inserts in, slide the brace down, and bolt it all back up. As for the energy suspension inserts, I've haven't gotten them, but the lower mounts are a piece of cake to get to, so it should be pretty straightforward.
If you're just doing the OEM rubber replacements, its still pretty straightfoward. Support the engine/transmission, do them one at a time, torque everything back down to the helms manual spec. You really can't go wrong with it.