Yes, it has the philips screws. The wheel is essentially what holds the rotors on, which is nice and makes changing them much easier than some older generations. The calipers are not hard to remove, but an impact wrench or breaker bar may be necessary depending on how much room you have and how strong you are. If you are only doing pads then you only need to remove the lower slider pin so you can swing the caliper up and access the pads. If you are changing the rotors as well, leave the slider pins alone and remove the caliper bracket bolts to remove the entire caliper so you can slide the rotor off and also access the pads this way. Either way you will need a large C clamp, and I suggest a small piece of wood, to press the caliper piston back into the bore to make room for the new, thicker pads. The piece of wood is used as a bridge across the piston to give the C clamp something to push against so that you don't have to screw the clamp all the way down into the piston and back out when you're done pressing it in. You could use something else...a hard piece of plastic, etc, as long as it's firm enough and you're careful not to damage the piston face or dust boot. The piston will push almost all the way in to be flush with the caliper inner face, you'll feel when it stops moving. I usually loosen the master cylinder reservoir cap when doing this, and if you've added fluid recently to top off the reservoir it may overflow as you push fluid back into it from the calipers, so it helps to put a pan or a large rag under the master cylinder, or siphon/suck some fluid out if you have some way of doing this (turkey baster?). Depending on the pads you get, they may or may not have anti-rattle pads/shims already built in. If they do I wouldn't use the original shims as I've seen them slide their way down to where they can interfere with the brakes, or off-center the pad if they slide far enough to be under only part of the piston. With the Hawk pads I've used they come with their own shim and I haven't had any problems with squeaking or anything using just the included, glued on shim. Keep the OEM shims in the new pad box if you're concerned you might need them later. If any, I put some anti-rattle grease (Hawk pads come with a packet, or you can get some at your local parts store) on the end clips and between the piston & shim, and outer shim & caliper fingers. When you install the new pads the ones with the wear indicator (metal tab sticking off the back of the pad) are usually installed as the inside pads.

You didn't mention if you're doing the rear as well and if it has disc brakes. If so, the caliper has the e-brake mechanism as well so things are a little different. The piston of a rear caliper w/e-brake is different and has to be screwed back in, not pressed with a C clamp or anything else. It can be screwed in using a spanner wrench or I usually just use a pair of large needle nose pliers held open to an appropriate width. There are special tools for this, but the pliers work fine in my experience. I believe there's also some little nubs/pegs on the rear inside pad that should line up with the piston face.

Here are some pictures that you may find helpful:

2007 4 Door V6 EX 6 Speed Manual Front


2007 4 Door V6 EX 6 Speed Manual Rear w/Disc