So Sunday my lady friend and I went out to the water. Me to surf and her to shoot. It wasn't a particularly big day, but perfect for my board.

Water was about 57 degrees. Hands and feet numb pretty quickly in that water.

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One of the first waves of the day.


Same Wave


Almost full face ride


But feels DAMN good!


Resting my arms and looking through the clear water at the fish/massive great white shark lurking under me h:


Another wave set


Paddle hard


Caught the face


Working on my angle rather than straight out




Another set








Finish it out


Take the easy way in


Call me h:


Fucking LOVE this picture!


Sometimes you just don't want to stand all the way up h:


Final wave.


Nice cut!

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I left PB and said to myself...I still can't believe that I live in San Diego, have a job, loving life, and surfing.

Damn life is good!