Was it tuned? Well, yes and no. It was "dyno-tuned" back in the day when the 8psi pulley, J&S, injectors, etc. was installed. Even though my dyno sheet showed 228hp and 166trq, I knew it felt waaay too rich. This was recently confirmed (5 yrs. after install) when I found my old restrictor valve and reinstalled it to my FMU vacuum hose. This totally allowed me to reduce fuel pressures. I then retuned my fuel setup to proper idle and max pressures. Engine runs way cleaner; smoother. No more backfires and burps. More importantly, the engine doesn't suddenly die out when I let off the gas. (I've been plagued by this FOREVER and no one was ever able to figure this out. Now I know it's due to ECU trying to advance/retard timing in too wide a range because of too much fuel.)

Anyway, true, my base timing is set at stock. But I wouldn't say that there are no changes. That's the job of the J&S...to control timing. But it does this over several seperate conditions and parameters.

As I stated above, I have it set to start retard @ 5psi (I've since bumped it back to start @ 0psi) with the rate setting to retard 1 degree per psi. Also, it also has a feature that let's you set the amount of retard (2, 4, 6, or 8 degrees max.) for mid-range acceleration. Instead of boost based, this feature pulls timing based on vacuum and/or rpm. (ie. accelerating from 70 mph on freeway).

Since my last post, I've done more research and tuning. I ended up with a test run at WOT that was night and day. Let's just say it's has been a looong time since I did a decent WOT run without my gauge lightin' up like a Christmas tree! Only got between 1 to 2 knock retard LED's to flicker. With my unit set for 10 degree retard range (1 LED representing 1degree knock retard), I was only pulling between 1 and 2 degrees from knock. So with my Boost Rate knob set @ 1 degree per psi of boost, and being that I see 10psi max., my base timing is bumped back to 6 degrees at full boost. (This even right? Sure seems like a lot of power lost!!)

Anyway, regarding my many questions up top, I now narrow it down to this: Can anyone simply explain how to work the J&S MAP Limiter knob? Right now I have the knob around the mid-point (just when the 'Adjust' LED is lit), indicating the stock set point before the ECU goes into 'open-loop' when sensing boost. According to the instructions this has some range of adjustability for WOT. How do I do this? With the knob set at threshhold (LED lit), is my adjustability range CCW from this point (staying within the lit range)? Or do I turn CW, point being to reset a new signal point?

A-dub