problem fixed
It seems like it was after all the brake booster.
I thought I still had a problem with the ABS so I came up with a way to isolate parts of the hydraulic circuit.
On my ABS modulator there are 6 ports. 2 from master cylinder and then 4 for the diagonal front and rear.
I bought 2 brake lines 8" from autozone and I bent the tubes to so that they closed front brakes on the modulator and rear brakes. Then of course I have no control of the brakes anymore but since I knew and tested the emergency brake I can turn the car on and see how the pedal feel.
Since the pedal now felt VERY firm I knew that the problem is not the ABS modulator. I wanted to hook back the rear brake and then the front brakes one at a time. So I did.
So I hooked up the rear and they felt fine. I noticed that the pedal only sink 1/4" when the engine turns on. That's good.
When I hooked up the front brakes the pedal became very spongy so I went and bleed the two fronts again and the pedal become harder.
I took the car for a spin and problem solved!
What I have learned from this are a few things:
1) Always use flare fitting wrench!
2)PB blaster works great with putting it on and waiting a few minutes. Then take a hammer and GENTLY tap the fittings to release the tension. Then you can use the flare nut wrench to open the fittings.
3)I saved my self a bundle of money for a new ABS modulator that was not needed. Good thing that I performed these tests first.
4)I can extend my ABS modulator test to test the individual circuits (2) inside the modulator. This is if one circuit is not working correctly and the self ABS diagnostics didn't catch it.
5)Speed bleeders ROCK! They have them at Autozone and also online.
It is ALWAYS importent not to drive the car while you have brake problems.
Last edited by DOZ5; 05-27-2008 at 06:32 AM.