Update: Went to the Acura Dealership and we went around and around for a bit. The tech who ran the compression check wasn't in. I informed them that to be down 100 psi was far and away from being normal. I showed him my oil change records (Type & Weight, # of qts, Type of Filter, Miles and Comments). He questioned the 270 psi number so he called the Tech Line. I waited. They exclaimed that the "issue" is a scored bore and is due to neglect.
Now intelligent persons will question how in Hades would they know that that's the issue with THIS car. Oh, so you're intelligent, too. Good.
I informed them that I've been involved in several ITR/B18C5 engine builds and the issue was the oil rings being covered in carbon and I'd bet him a dollar to a doughnut this may be the issue if it's the bottom end.
We agreed that they'd drop the oil pan and inspect the cylinder bores as a first step.
HOWEVER, I spoke to a race engine builder who asked me a few questions:
- Are you consuming oil? Yes.
- Have you wet and dry compression numbers? I don't know.
- What are your cylinder leakage numbers? 3%
- Are you suffering a huge decrease in power? No.
- When was the last time you changed your PCV system? Never
- How old and how many miles on your vehicle, is it bone stock? 8 years old; 80k miles; yes
His suggestion was that the numbers "cannot" be correct and he'd bet that the throttle was not held open during the compression check as it's not making "only 110 bhp or so." I agreed.
He felt that PCV valves should probably be changed every year and the PCV SYSTEM should be looked at with a careful eye as the car is not appreciably slower than when new. If the PCV system is replaced and it still burns oil then he'd suspect the valvetrain: guides and seals but usually it's one guide and not all of them so check the spark plugs and borescope each combustion chamber.
He also stated that if the bores are scuffed to bring in the block and give him the information as to whose pistons and rings I'd like to have in the vehicle & he'd also take care of the cylinder heads (obviously).
As for the wet vs. cold test a simpler way is to place a vacuum gage on the dipstick tube and start the car. It should show a slight vacuum. If it goes positive you have significant blowby and either pull the engine and either:
- Do it yourself
- Bring it in
- Drive it to Acura
- Drive the vehicle to him
Price from the dealer was 15 hours labor ($1,500) plus parts.
He's investigating the cost of the parts to see if he can assist me.
Thanks for your assistance; I'll keep everyone posted. Looks like we've turned a corner and heading in the proper direction
