*** WIRING:
Now to clear things up, many people emailed me saying to use the Accord harness and just add the VTEC pressure, VTEC solenoid, Knock Sensor, and Intake Air Bypass wires and you are set. Similar to a B series EG swap, easy right? Well, the truth is actually much, much darker...
First of all, about half of the wires for the sensors have to be relocated/lengthened. This is difficult going into the whole thing blind, and you will spend a significant amount of time cross referencing wiring diagrams in you Helms. I will spare you that pain. Also avoid "mickey-mousing" it, buy some flex tube and tape so you can give the illusion that the wiring was not d; it, buy one by a drunken blind man.
Also, and I can't stress this enough, CHECK YOUR GROUNDS. They are the cause and solution to all of lifes problems!
* Wires to add:
VTEC Solenoid: Grn/Yel on Prelude harness > Pin A4 on ECU // SENSOR LOCATION: Near distributor
VTEC Pressure Switch: Lt Blu on Prelude harness > Pin D6 on ECU // SENSOR LOCATION: Near distributor
Blk/Red > Ground
IAB: Pink on Prelude harness > Pin A17 on ECU // SENSOR LOCATION: Drivers side of intake manifold
Blk/Yel > 12V
Knock Sensor: Red/Blu on Prelude harness > Pin D3 on ECU // SENSOR LOCATION: Middle back of block
* Sensors to lengthen:
(NOTE: Consult the helms for the location of sensors, and color code of the wires on your harness.)Colors below are for the Accord LX harness.
IAT (GRN/BLU-RED/YEL): Too short, needs to reach drivers side of intake manifold.
MAP (YEL/WHT-GRN/WHT-WHT/YEL): Too short, needs to reach wherever on the firewall you mount the MAP sensor.
EGR Lift solenoid (GRN/BLU-WHT/BLK-YEL/BLU): Too short, needs to reach passengers side of intake manifold.
H02s (GRN/BLU-WHT/RED-ORN/BLK-YEL/BLK): Too short, needs to be run to O2 sensor, near oil filter.
IAC valve (BLK/BLU-YEL/BLK): Too short, needs to reach top of intake runners, in the middle.
ECT switch A: This will need to be extended to the thermostat housing on the passengers side of the back of the head. The ECT sensor and ECT sending unit fit fine (under the distributor.)
*NOTE: There is no ECT switch B on the JDM H22, just spare back the connector.
Alternator: The power wire on the alternator needs to be lengthened about 2". We just cut the one off the Prelude harness, and attached it to the Accord harot;. ness with a large enough splice.
*NOTE: SWITCH WIRES A6 (EGR solenoid) and A11 (H02S heater) at the ECU
When you think you have everything wired up correctly, plug in the brick and turn the key. Have a multimeter ready to troublshoot if you throw codes. Remember, some of the sensors may be bad so don't run yourself into a wall thinking you wired wrong. (Although you may have.)
*** HOW TO:
Remove the stock motor, follow the steps in the Helms if you haven't done this before. I will assume you have a hoist. Take care removing the axles, pull them straight out of the tranny to avoid damaging the seal. It makes life easier if you remove the radiator also, as the motor/tranny must be cocked to get the tranny past the passengers side mount. Having the radiator out just gives you more mobility, and it takes about 10 seconds to remove. While you are at it you may as well remove the subframe that the trailing radius rods and front mount connect to (about 5 seconds) for even more space. Double check that everything is disconnected and hoist the motor out, this is easier with two people one pivoting the motor and watching for clearance in the back, and the other running the hoist.
Have the H22 ready to go (wiring especially) before you put it in. Drop the sucker in the opposite of how you took the F22 out, lining up the mounts etc. The H22 seems to lean back in the engine compartment, don't panic-it's normal. I am not going into too much detail here, you know what you are doing if you bought the Helms. Grind down the Prelude drivers mount, like I mentioned earlier. (Just enough to get the metal bushing to fit between the frame brackets.)
Mount your map sensor, vaccum hard lines, and EVAP canister on the firewall and consult the vaccum hose diagram on how everything interconnects. You will have two hoses to cap off on the tranny, where the power steering speed sensor connects (passengers side). Usually these would go to the Prelude rack, but since there is no matching connection on the Accord rack, they are useless.
Put everything back together, and run your additional wires to the ECU. You can get all tech, and actually get the ecu pins from Honda but it works just as well to strip the wires back (I used 18 ga. BTW) and push it into the proper place on the clip. This method isn't as cool, but has never given me any problems. DOUBLE CHECK ALL YOUR WIRING AND HOSES! Hook up the Prelude throttle cable, as well as your intake and header of choice, noticing that your car is going to be extremely loud driving it to the muffler shop. Finish putting everything back together, AGAIN I am assuming you have a helms so you know the steps!
Make sure you have all the fluids replaced, and everything torqued. Finish putting everything back in, and clean that dirty little motor. Stand back and adjust yourself, so on lookers think you had it all locked down from the beginning.