ECU/Tuning. This will be different for everyone.
Now let's think, what ECU will be best for this setup? The answer is NONE. Most ecu's will run this motor, but run it pretty darn shitty. How could you even expect it to run right? This isn't a stock honda motor! You WILL need some way to tune if you want this thing to last threw the day, week, month, year.
If you're looking for an ECU, just get one that you can chip, and has vtec capability. That's it. FYI, generally, GSR ecu's run this setup like poop so steer away from them unless it's already chipped and ready to be tuned.
Also, don't just buy some "skunk2" or "Mugen" chip. First of all, it's highly doubtful it's an authentic program to begin with. Second of all, you're taking someone else's word for what program is on that chip to run your new motor. You MUST be retarded.
Every LSVTEC/B20vtec motor is different and must be tuned INDIVIDUALLY!
So, get an ecu. Have it chipped. Install a wideband O2 sensor. Hook everything up together. Run your software of choice, and tune. You will need to tune for 14.5-15.1 at idle, and then gradually increase that to 13:1 at WOT in vtec. This is just a general rule...but tends to be pretty close to a RULE in tuning.

I run OBD0 just because of it's simplicity. Honestly, the only significant difference between OBD0 and OBD1 technology is the O2 sensor. Being able to tune stock honda ecu's has been around for awhile and it all started with OBD1. But, nowadays there's plenty of tuning software for OBD0 which has just as much capability as tuning with OBD1. OBD0 tuning software just hasn't become as mainstream as OBD1 software such as hondata, uberdata, chrome, etc. have. I run software called BRE which I downloaded for free from http://www.PGMFI.org. Go there. Read. Learn.