I love when people say "the LS/VTEC swap" like it's some sort of defined entity. LS/VTEC doesn't mean anything more than a motor assembled from an LS block and some sort of VTEC head. Since it's a custom motor, there are no set specs. It can be anything ranging from a plain ole B18B block with B16A head on it, or something with forged rods and pistons, spiffy cams, etc. Both are an "LS/VTEC."

Honestly you're not going to put 200 to the wheels with an LS motor and maintain any sort of streetability. The highest figure I've seen from an all-motor non VTEC B-series is like 175 to the wheels and that was with a B20B running 12:1 CR and Crower 404 (a.k.a. so lumpy they idle like a Harley) cams. Now that translates to about 200 hp at the crank, so if that's what you're talking about then you'll need to punch the displacement out to 2 liters to get the desired figure.

Now, if you built an LS/VTEC you could hit 200 hp with probably less money invested. Here's a basic outline of what you'd need to hit 200 whp with an LS/VTEC:

• GOOD intake/header/exhaust--no wussy short ram stuff or stock-sized collector header. AEM CAI, DC JDM 4-1, 2.5" Carsound cat, custom 2.5" exhaust with your choice of muffler
• B16A head. Add an ITR intake manifold and throttle, skunk2 Stage 2 cams and skunk2 valvesprings/titanium retainers. Adjustable cam gears to tune.
• B18B block. Forged rods (Eagle or Crower econo-billet are both fine) and B16A pistons. This'll give about 11.3:1 CR.
• Chipped P28 ECU + A'PEXi V-AFC

Throw it all together, break it in and spend a couple hours on the dyno dialing everything in. Obviously while the motor's apart you'd want to install stuff like new bearings, bolts, water pump, timing belt etc etc etc. It ain't cheap but you'll have a motor good for at least another 100k miles that also makes a ton of power.