Hey guys,
Recently ran into a problem with my EG, concerning Rod knock. I was driving around and noticed my oil pressure light flickering. I was on the highway at the time, and so I proceeded to get home as fast as possible. After exiting the highway, I could hear Rod knock, although only when the engine was reving more than like 3k rpms. So I figured, either I must be really low on oil for some reason, or my oil pump is shot. So, I got it home, and the next day changed the oil, cause it was low. Started it up, and it still had rod knock, so now I knew the rod bearings were shot. So, I ordered some new rod bearings from Honda, (yes I ordered the right ones), and replaced the bearings. They all looked ok, except for Cylinder # 3 bearing, which was cracked. I didn't get to thoroughly inspect the rods, as I didn't want to tear the motor apart, and I figured my problem was the bad rod bearing on # 3. So, I re-assembled everything and started it up. It idled fine, and there was no rod knock noise. So I let it warm up and took it out on the road. Same thing, after like 3k rpms, it starts to knock. So I bring it back home, and while it's idling (600 rpms) the low oil pressure light is flickering. So I put it in the garage, and I've been trying to figure out what to do.

A buddy of mine, DSM guy, said that these symptoms are classic DSM symptoms of Crank-walk. Low oil pressure sometimes, and a rod knock.
So my question is, what are some of your suggestions?

The motor is a B16A, with a GSR head and Intake Manifold. I have LS pistons and a GSR tranny. Custom turbo kit, with a 14b. I was thinking about getting a B18a/b block and going LS/VTEC but I would rather stick with a B16 block, just so I don't have to worry about doing the conversion.

I haven't been able to take the motor apart, but it sounds like there is extensive damage to the main bearings and crank, so IMO it would prob be better to start with a good condition used block, than to rebuild this one.
Lemme know what u guys think.
thanks guys