Ok,
This is what I was able to get done this weekend...
I replaced the coil with a new Honda piece, and it still misfired...
So, I did the following
-replaced ignitor/ICM with one from my 93 EX stocker, still same problem
-replaced main relay with new one from EX stocker (we got a new one like 3 months ago) still same problem
-checked, and resoldered all wires in engine bay, still same problem
-while engine was running pulled, twisted and moved wires (engine bay, at ecu) to see if there was a bad connection, no bad connection, still misfires
-burned like 5 different base maps with both Crome and Uberdata, and this is where it gets funny...
-with my original uberdata tune (from guy that tuned it), the tach will jump only at like part-full throttle, or when in boost. If I keep it floored to redline, it sometimes rips, and other times, it feels as though it's not getting enough fuel, or maybe the timing is being retarded, again the tach will jump if it does this...
-With my Crome base map tune, it seems to make the tach jump even more, say it's idling, then I rev it up a little, the tach will jump like 1000rpms then go back down... Also with this tune, even at like part throttle or just cruising, it seems to make the tach jump alot more, but it doesn't noticably effect the engine....
With both tunes, tach NEVER jumps around on off-throttle...
So, if the tune affects the tach jumping, could it really be that it's not getting enough fuel?

I am running DSM 450's with an old accord resistor box, the connections seem good, I moved them around and no misfire, but on *onda-tech.com, someone had a misfire problem that they figured out had to do with something with the resistor box, guy apparently ran a wire from injector grounds to the ?nomex plug? (where is nomex plug exactly?) to the ECU or something and it fixed his problem... Anyone ever hear dof this?
Also, some guy on Honda-tech said he had same problem, it was fuel filter, was clogged, put in a new filter, and it fixed his miss with jumping tach...

But the funny thing is it really doesn't start to happen until it's hot, so how would the fuel pump or filter "know" when the car is hot, in order to start misfiring...

P.S. I checked my wires too, no visible cracking or arcing, and the resistance checks ok, max of 6k ohms for the longest wire, spec max is 25k ohms, so I know the wires are good, besides I tried the nology's, and same problem.
Help Me!!