Originally Posted by Sirfallsalot243

WRONG!!! First of all, the B16B is a CTR head, which comes ported and polished from the factory. That is by far the best head of the three you listed. Secondly, the B16 head is known to flow better in stock condition than the GSR head does. Some mild porting of either head would erase any differences in performance- however stock for stock, the B16 head is a better performer. If the choice is between a B16 or a GSR head, I would go with whichever one is the better deal. It should be known however that the B16 performs a touch better straight out of the box.

As for the bottom end, it all depends on your budget. Building an LSVTEC motor is a motor that is made to REV. Vtec engines have very good top end, and high redlines. The problem here is that the B18B bottom end was not made to rev to 8000+ RPMS. If i built an LSVTEC on an OEM bottom end, I would recommend not to rev past the original redline of the B18B. Building the bottom end (and raising the compression at the same time) can give you far better reliability, as well as power. Forged internals are a good route, but arent always nessecary. IMO, an OEM VTEC bottom end will suffice if you are low on cash. For example, to bump compression on my GSR motor a bit, im installing new rings with B16 pistons.

Remember, for this build you will need (for best results):
A GSR or B16 tranny
A VTEC water pump and timing belt
Any you will want to have your oil galley filler. This is because the B18B does not have a hole for the oil galley, so oil can sit on the head gasket. This risks blowing the gasket. You can have it filled and machined down at any machine shop. If you are having a shop do the whole build- make sure they do this (some shops dont).

As im sure you know, the LSVTEC build is a good way to build power, but it can also be a good way to blow up your motor. Make sure the shop that does it has lots of experience doing it. My shops head mechanic has an LSVTEC daily driver that is turboed under 10PSI of boost. Im comfortable that he knows what hes doing. The whole job should cost you right around $2000 if done at a shop, not including tuning. I would also recommend running a VAFC2 (VAFC is a bit outdated, and has some known problems).

Good luck, and feel free to PM me with any questions.