Originally Posted by HatchVX
If i was you i would stay away form the GE sleves, the tuning place donw here said they are not that good. Stick with Darton or AEBS. I would go with Weisco pistons and ross rods, i do belive that is what WCS ran. With bearings stick with OEM, no need to ACL, they are softer and if u are DD the car u will wear them out. Make sure u get the bottom end balanced. Cheap insurence.
Hey WCS is o ringing the block needed for higher boost levels? Another note if u are gonna to run ur car a drag comp, like NOPI or NHRA the dart block is snot legal.
Ok, here's what I did and you can take my experience or leave it:
I went with a T-sleeved block from AEBS bored to 84mm (1.9something Liters). AEBS claims that their sleeves are tested and proven up to 55psi and I don't doubt it. I wanted to have it o-ringed, but they forgot to do it and I'm kinda glad they did. There are two kinds of o-ring setups you can use:
1) the o-rings are made from steel and you use a copper head gasket that form fits around the o-rings creating the seal. This method I do not recommend as I'm not sure how difficult it is to find a proper copper head gasket for our motors, especially being overbored. Additionally, you'd have to have the head machined as well to accept the steel o-ring as it's not meant to crush.
2) The o-rings are copper and you use a standard head gasket. In this method the o-rings actually crush creating your seal.
I pushed 23+ psi with my setup and really was limited by the turbo and exhaust manifold so I didn't see much of a need for o-ringing it.
I used Pauter rods, which are proven to 1000+ whp and ROSS custom made, 9.5:1 compression pistons, also proven to 1000+ whp. I used ROSS piston rings as well. I highly recommend these components. The rods are American steel, like Crower, but have an I-beam design. You can see pics here:
https://www.honda-acura.net/forums/s...d.php?t=142746
I used ACL main & rod bearings, and ACL thrust washers. I got them from camp something on H-T. Camp 159 or something. Good guys, great pricing.
I also used AEBS main and head studs. I previously used ARP, but I liked that AEBS' have allen-head tops on them so you can torque them much easier than the ARP's. I used an 85mm Cometic HG first, and then went to the correct 84mm. I don't think there's much of a difference as long as you don't go less than your bore, but I wanted it to be absolutely right.
I had the entire rotating assembly - clutch, crank, pistons/rods, crank pulley - balanced to 10k RPMs to ensure that there wouldn't be any unwanted vibrations.
I upgraded the valvetrain to the following: Rocket Motorsports Gen1 valve springs, Supertech titanium retainers, AEM 5-bolt cam gears, and OEM JDM ITR cams. Pics here:
https://www.honda-acura.net/forums/s...d.php?t=188670
I got 9whp on the dyno just from adjusting the intake cam.
That's the quick and dirty explanation of the upgrades I did. I stuck with the OEM GSR crank, but almost everything else was new. Search around for my posts to see the progression. In the end, I was able to push 457whp and 373wtq out of the thing on 91 octane pump gas at about 23psi. As I said earlier, it was really my turbo and exhaust mani that held me back. I have no doubt that I could have been in the 600 whp range with that setup had I installed larger injectors, a larger turbo, FullRace/LoveFab manifold, better intake manifold, and a few transmission upgrades (LSD/Axles).
hih