I've done it on a buddy's 5th gen and on my wife's Civic...it's not too bad. I would really encourage you to get a Helms manual because it's just a good investment and will tell you everything you need to know.

But off the top of my head here's what I got for you:

On some cars you only need to drain the tranny based on what side you are changing, the type of tranny etc. Since I'm not certain on your car, I'd just say drain the tranny to get started to avoid a mess when you pull out the axle(s).

Remove wheel and unstake and remove axle nut (you have two options for removing the axle nut, it's torqued on at ~150ft/lbs so either 1. put the wheel back on without the centercap/hubcap and use that grip of the tires on the ground for your resistance, or 2. have someone start the car and use the brakes to hold the front hub still while you remove the nut). Use a breaker bar, not a rachet, and if it doesn't budge then I like to tap on the breaker bar about half way up the bar with a small sledge to break it loose.

Release the lower ball joint ( I use a screw type ball joint release tool, makes removal a cinch.

I think I needed to release the tie-rod end as well.

Then slide the hub/spindle/rotor assembly outward. If the axle splines grab inside the hub, you'll need to tap them from the outside to push them though the hub. On the tranny side, use a pry bar and pry the tranny end of the axle out of the tranny.

Now install the new axles...start with the tranny side, this is the part that kinda gave me trouble both times I did it. I requires some degree of force to get the axle in and engage the ring clip, but you shouldn't hammer on the other end of the axle because you can damage the CV joints. I eventually got them in without much hammering. This is where it's nice to have a second set of hands, one to hold the hub end of the axle while you work the tranny end. Apply a bit of tranny fluid to the rubber seal on the axle.

Once you get the tranny end in (it's seated fully, just like the original axle was) then you swing the hub/spindle outward, and then slide it back over the axle. Make sure the axle splines slide though the hub okay. Once you get a few threads exposed, you can thread on the axle nut to help pull the axle through the hub.

Reattach the LBJ and Tie-rod ends, torque all to spec, stake the new axle nut, put the wheel back on

And don't forget to fill the tranny fluid again.

Disclaimer: This is just what I remember off the top of my head...maybe I'll post some Helm's pages to show the torque specs, etc.