I checked the MC again at lunch today, it was full to the MAX mark on the bottle with the lid taken off, the float takes up some fluid space. I tried gradually lowering the float down with the top off to see when the light would come on. It doesn't come on until the float is right at the bottom, last 1/4" of travel. By then, you'd have a major leak to go that low !

I remember when doing my brake job a while back, I got the rear shoes set rather close to the drums to eliminate excess slack in the e-brake pull. Had it set to yank up maybe 3-4" max to really set the brake hard, very short, but still a good shoe adjustment. Light always went out when you released the e-brake, no probs during the summer in warm temps.

Now as it's getting colder, what may be happening is the e-brake cable may be contracting when cold, and heat from the exhaust as car warms it up relaxes it a little :hsugh: . It took about 20 mins of running B4 the light went out this morning, was about 50F when I took off for work. At lunchtime, about 65F in the sun, light wasn't on again, car was cold from sitting.

I think what I need to do is pop open the console and back off the cable adjusting nut a little, grease the pivots and clean the switch. Maybe I was a bit aggressive :shocked: in wanting a very short pull on the lever and got it a bit too close? Haynes manual says to adjust for 6-10 clicks pull when fully applied. What, me worry :uhhok: ?! Shoulda' read the instructions first! :doh: Sorry, I get a bit carried away with these smilies, :drunk: :barf: :driving: wned: gotta love the animated ones!