The more and more I come on HAN, the more I realize people want to do a motor swap or turbo. Good, and I hope u have done your homework. So many threads have been started about it, that its sickening. So, I am going to pack this thread with all sorts of information and links that will help these people out and lets see if the noobs can go for one week without posting a question about the topic at hand
Swap: civics come stock with a variety of engines, but ill stick with the 92-00.
Non-vtec motors- d15’s, d16’s. these motors suck in my opinon. The d16a6 is ok due to it having a very nice flowing head. D15’s come with very weak rods, and the typical cast crap that Honda uses. I would not recommend turboing these motors past 7-8 psi unless u have done some sort of internal mods.
D16z6/y8- these are good, reliable motors. Torqueless, and low horsepower, but they like turbos and can rev pretty well. The y8 head flows a little bit better then the z6’s, but the motors are damn near identical. They can hold around 20-210 whp region safely if tuned well. This calculates to about 10-13 psi on a super 60 trim t3. if u blow ur motor tho pushing the limits of your d, that’s ur fault.
B18a/b1. this is a very nice motor to boost. Lower comprssion then the other b’s and I have seen people put 14psi thru a stock motor. The yare relatively cheap and very easy to find do to an abundance of people looking for the b18c1 which is basically a b18 with a vtec head. Now, u can put a vtec head on a non-vtec motor, but, it has to be done right from the get do, or there will be problems. I would recommendtaking both the head and the block to a professional to do any needed maching to get both of them level.
B18c1/c5. both have vtec heads, both have nice horsepower and decent torque. Both of which sadly have fairly high compression nto boot. I would say 10psi would be safe on a c1, but its up too you to do the research on a c5. the b18c5 is a rich mans motor and a N/A freaks best friend. They have high compression and rev like a beast. But like I said, there not cheap and sometimes hard to come by in good shape
B20. my opinon, the autistic motor of the bunch. Thin ass walls, toothpick rods and typical pistons. Although, if done correctly can be a nice motor and its fairly cheap and abundant. I wouldn’t put too much boost thru one of these motors, it just isn’t wise. Bitch and whine if you want, cause im sure some of you will, but this motor should not be pushed like a b18a/b or even a c1.
The h22 is basically the big block Honda motor. I do not know a whole lot about these engines, other then them beign a real bitch to install. The worst thing about them is that there sleeves are made of a different material then other Honda engines. So, the only way to run forged pistons is too have the motor sleeved.
The b16 is basically a dohc d16. torqueless and the only way to fell the monety u just paid for it is to rev the shit out of it. Turboing these engines is a common thing and I would say 10-12 psi is plenty safe with proper tuning

Turbo setups range from pre-built kits too junkyard setups. It all depends on how much money you have and what your goals are. I built my turbo setup for my d with all new parts and it came to around 1700.
Turbos- range in many sizes. Just remember that bigger is not always better. You may be running a turbo for drag supras, but your stock 1.8 might not even spool that thing. Another thing, psi and horsepower are totally separate. Lets look at it this way. A .42/.48 t3 turbo puts 10psi thru a d16z6 with stock internals, head etc, and on average will make around 190 to the wheels. A super 60 t3, .63/.60, at tenm psi can put out around 200-210 on that same motor at 10psi do to the amount of air it can flow. This is a huge factor for guys with built motors running 20psi or more. There could be a difference from 10-50hp based on jsu the size of the turbo.
Rule of thumb, bigger it is, longer it takes too spool.
Fuel- injectors shoulkd be upgraded on a turbo car and I woul highly recommend running some sort of engine managemwent, and an FMU is not fuel managemtn *cough* tony *cough*. There have benn lots of companys developing software for factory ecus. Such as crome, uberdata, edyne, megasquirt and a few others. These are reliable programs that should be tuned by someone with experience or atleast someone with basic knowledge of fuel management. There are also things like hondata and aem ems. These are bling bling systems in my opnion. Very over priced and I am not very familiar with them
The rest of the things that are involved ina turbo setup are pretty self explainatory. Intercoolers, blow off valves, piping and oil lines. Intercoolers should be matched to your desired hp output. Blow off valves are basically the buyers preference to what they want ot hear after letting off the throttle. I like loud and obnoxious, so I bought the turboxs horn. Piping should be kept between 2.5-3.00 inches. Oil lines, I recommend braided lines for return and feed, less chance of pinching or kinks in the line.