The complete Accord 6th Gen (98-02) Rear Camber kit thread: Installation for both an upper type SPC (Eibach) rear camber EZ-Arm kit and/or an Ingalls lower type Smart-Arm(s) camber kit. This also applies to the TL and CL sharing the 6th gen chassis. The 7th gen Accord and TSX are nearly the same as well.


First a list of tools I used, I don’t recall which were used for what kit, sorry, just know that I used this list to remove my old SPC kit and install the new Ingalls kit. What ever kit you use is up to you, you only need one kit. However, the SPC kits rear ball joint boot is a weak point of wear, the boot tends to degrade over time. The reason for my SPC kit removal.

Napa (Balkamp) Ball joint remover (lift type) + grease $20.00 or use Honda (07MAC-SL00200 tool $170.00).
Safty Glasses;
Pliers for Cotter pins;
17mm ˝” drive
14mm 3/8” drive
14mm ˝” drive (I would recommend a 6pt and 12pt for this.)
12mm 3/8” drive
10mm 3/8” drive
17mm box wrench
19mm socket ˝” drive (you need this for the SPC kit)
200mm adj. Wrench (cresent-medium) for jam nuts on Ingalls kit
˝” drive breaker bar
˝” drive socket + extensions
3/8” drive socket + extensions
3/8” t-bar (mini breaker)
˝” drive torque wrench
˝” drive swivel joint
soft face hammer
3-ton hyd. floor jack
mini-scissor hyd. jack
Pair of jack stands
shop towels
flash light
black magic marker perm. Type
Tape measure.
AND GET A WWW.HELMINC.COM SHOP BOOK FIRST!!!!

SPC (Eibach) rear type Camber kit: (note I show the un-installing of the SPC kit and reinstalling the Honda Arm, no big deal it’s the same either way.)

To install this kit first jack up the car via the rear toe-hook jack point, use Accord jack stand points for the jack stands. I choose to also leave my jack on the tow-hook during the install for more stability. Also be sure to put the car in Park or “R” for manuals, and chock the both front tires.

Now, once you get your wheel off. I started by breaking the 14mm bolt loose for the body connection of the upper arm. A 17mm nut will be located on the opposite end. I used a breaker bar and 6pt. Socket 14mm to bust the bolt loose. Finish the job using the 14mm 3/8drive socket and a 17mm box wrench. The area is tight! You may need to use the 10mm and 12mm socket to remove the ABS wire brackets and 12mm brake line bracket. I needed to do this. I left the bolt and nut loose in place on the body side until I popped the ball joint.


Then loosen the 17mm bolt on the upper ball joint. I left it on the end of the threads. Then I installed the Napa ball joint tool and used the 19mm ˝” drive socket to motivate the tool and pop the joint. Where some eye protection, this joint can part HARD and fast. Keeping the nut on the end will prevent it from shooting off the upright when popped.



Now remove all the nuts and bolts, remove the upper ball joint control arm. Honda calls this the Upper Arm in the Helm book.

Using the thread jam nut adjuster, set your new SPC (Eibach) arm to the length of your old Honda arm you just removed.

I used a small scissor jack on the hub to raise the rear suspension putting it in ride height, about 14-16” from the fender lip to the hub center. Then I installed the new EZ-Arm in the ball joint socket first. Lightly thread it in, and then bolt it to the body and secure the rear nut on the body bolt. With the jack set to ride height tighten and secure to 43 ft-lbs. Then tighten the ball joint to 43 ft-lbs. You may need to keep turning the ball joint nut if needed just past 43 ft-lb point to line up the holes for the cotter pins, install those then.



Re-attach the ABS wire brackets and the brake line bracket, if needed. You have finished installing your SPC (Eibach) kit. Go get a rear end alignment now.

Ingalls Smart-Arm(s) rear type Camber kit install:

Again jack up the car per the helms book, again I left the jack on the tow hook for a 3pt support system.

First mark the rear toe adjuster bolt-washer-nut for reference before you remove the rear most control arms. This is basically your Toe-adjuster arm. Then remove the single nut and washer on the rear hub upright, and remove the 14mm bolt, nut, and keyed washer from the body bracket. I again supported the hub; raised a few inches with a scissor jack just to give the hub something to rest on.




Adjust your new Ingals rear arm to the same length as the old Honda arm and reinstall, being sure the keep the body bolt and toe washer aligned at your earlier made mark. Torque all bolts the 43 ft-lbs.



Then remove/loosen the single 14mm bolt for the lower middle arm at the body, the 17mm nut for this arm is welded to the body.

The bolt-nut combo holding the lower middle arm (new camber arm) to the upright is 17mm’s on both ends. I braced a 17mm box wrench on one end against my scissor jack (be careful here!) then I used my 17mm socket to turn the other end. Then remove the lower middle camber arm. I used the attachment bolts to help me align the length for the new camber Smart-Arm. I then reinstalled them on the body and upright. Torque all bolts to 43 ft-lbs. Make sure your jam nuts are set on the arms. You are now done with the Ingals install, go get a rear end alignment now.


Adjust new arms to same length as old Honda arm.


Using scissor jack as a box wrench brace b/c I didn’t have a second 17mm socket…


Ingalls kit done, time for a beer…..

Any questions let me know, it was hard taking pics and doing the kit(s) but all was done for me in a leasurely 3-4hours.