Originally Posted by MrChad
Yeah but don't we have some rear negative camber in our cars, even by factory standards? The rear wheels always look canted a bit. So would the bubble still work.
Your toe will always be out of spec some, unless you get the ingalls kit you can't truely adjust the toe, it is what it is. But in theory toe shouldn't change with travel too much, that's why we have toe arm, right?
Hey and for preloading the upper spc bar before we set the torque for the frame bolts, can't you use the jack to raise the rear suspension (via the hub) with the tire off and the car on the stands, then torque the system to spec?
Yeah, there is some negative camber stock, -0.5 to -1.0 is the factory spec range. But I just meant that you could use the bubble to compare left and right to make them even, not 0. My buddy had some camber instruments that were pretty sweet, you would hang it on the lip of the wheel, contacted the top and bottom of the wheel and would give a digital readout. I think he borrowed them from T.C. Kline. You just had to make sure you were on a level surface to get an accurate reading.
There actually IS a factory rear toe adjustment, but yeah, I don't think it's going to change too much when changing the upper arm.
That's a good idea about jacking up the hub to avoid preload. If you took a measurement of fender to hub center before you jacked up the car and removed the wheel, you could get it pretty dead on. I guess I wasn't worried about it enough to think up something like that.
h: See...you're the engineer, I'm just a dentist.
