Well I had a little knock-knock when going slowly over bumps, checked everything out, and my front UBJ had about a 1/4 of play.

My ball joint press is a c-clamp version that I got from Harbor Freight, I've used it on 3 ball joints now (2 were on a buddy's car) and it seems to be holding up fine. I got it for $30, but it's on sale for $20 right now if you want to check it out: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=38335 That's the basic kit, they have some more with different attachments that go up to $60.

What kinda sucks about changing the UBJ is that unless you have a skinny coilover system that you can maybe work around, you have to pull the spring/shock assembly to get the upper arm off to be able to press out the UBJ. Not a big deal, just adds a few minutes. It's nice if you have a vise to put the c-clamp in to hold everything steady, press out the old one, press in the new one. Sometimes the Harbor Freight press doesn't adapt perfectly, depending on what you are pressing. When I did a buddy's LBJ on his 5th gen with the hub-over-rotor design, I didn't want to mess with removing the hub and the rotor from the knuckle, so I kinda had to improvise using a flat prybar and two large sockets lol. Ghetto yes, but effective and cheap. I can't remember if I had to ghetto anything on the upper arm, I think it went smooth with just the parts that come with the press.

Let me know if you end up getting the lower arms. I'll probably leave mine for now. Luckily I saved my OEM upper arms, I'm a packrat like that. So if I do end up going with the lower arms I should be okay on the top ones.

The ball joint release tool I got from Napa for about $20. It doesn't have the adjustable pivot like the one pictured in the Helms manual, but it's worked fine so far. My buddy broke it while using it once, but he was using an imact wrench and there was no lube on the threads. He bought me a new one, and I've used it a lot since, with some grease on the threads with hand tools, and it's worked great.

Mine: