Yeah a b&m FPR isn't a bad idea to bump up fuel pressure a tad just to be on the safe side. You are correct, I left out the ignition retard point :doh: Zex will give you a tuning sheet to start off with, however I think their timing specs are too conservative. They say you need 4 degrees of retard for the 75 shot, but pretty much everyone runs it at 2-3 degrees of retard...the retard is from the stock timing. I was running 4, but never got a chance to bring it up because my bottle got stolen. I would start at 4 degrees, put in new plugs and make a full pass on the juice....then shut the car off and check the plugs and see how they look. If they are good, put in another degree of timing, make another run, and check again. If you notice any signs of white specks on the electrode, retard it a degree and do it again. I know people running stock timing on a 75 shot and are fine, but every car is different. Yes you are right, spraying under 3000 rpm is not good, and you DO NOT want to hit the rev limiter. The rev limiter cuts fuel, but you are still at WOT so the nitrous is still spraying in. Lots of air and no fuel = kaboom. Don't spray for more than 15 seconds a run, and let the car cool a little before spraying again...nitrous produces very high cylinder temperatures. You'll also need a nitrous pressure gauge to monitor the pressure of the nitrous inside the bottle. Optimum pressure is 900-1050...higher the pressure, faster you go. I sprayed at 1100 once, the kick was great

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HTH
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2015 Ford Mustang GT Fastback - Ingot Silver - 6M - Performance Package - Gibson Catback, JLT CAI, FR 47lb injectors, BAMA E85 tune, Eibach Sportline, BMR wheel hop kit, UPR oil separator, Steeda shifter bushing/bracket
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