Remove ALL coolent hoses going into the head- Upper Radidator hose, IACV coolent hose that goes to the block,2 or 3 more coolent hoses on the back side of the head, dissconnect all the electrical connectors- MAP, Dist. TPS, IACV, Injectors, Coolent Temp sensor under the Dist., any more i forgort- Dissconnect the Fuel line going to the Fuel filter, Vacume Hoses going to the I.M., Get under the car and get an extention- 12mm socket and get the 2 bolts that support the I.M. bracket to the block that Shmoo is talkn bout. Remove the Exhaust mani, then take off valve cover, and remove the Head bolts, You need to do this in correct order so that the LEAST amout of Warpage will happen. In the manual u have, it has the bolts labeld 1-10. start at the bolt numberd #10 and work your way down. best bet is to just break all 10 bolts before totaly loosing them. just crack them with a 1/4 turn before you totaly loosen them.

-Every Alunimum head that is removed from a car will be warpped. some will leak some wil not. but they all do warp. for insurance your best bet is to bring it to a machine shop or an Engine shop, and get the head resurfaced, or Decked. this is when they shave off the very minimal in order to get the head Perfactly streight again. Alunimum is a soft metal and will warp every time it is removed. To get a head Resurfaced can cost $30-80 bux. depending on where you live. but well worth the agravation of not gettin it done and puttin the head back on and seeing it leak, then having to take it all apart again.. Just get it done the first time. its well worth it.
Good luck bro
God Bless