Problem:
Wife was less than 1 mile down the road and the car just quit. Couldn't get back started. Engine cranks, but won't turn over. We've bought this car new in '92.

Fuel:
- turned ignition on, heard relay click, and fuel pump hum for 4 seconds.
- plenty of gas in fuel tank

Other:
- Oil dip stick looked clean (no sign of water)

Electrical:

- Checked for spark:
- removed driver side spark plug, re-installed cap onto plug
- grounded plug to engine and cranked.
- no spark could be seen
- repeated this with neighbor Terry

- opened fuse box under hood
- IG 50A fuse looks good
- didn't see any others related to ignition

- Coil:
- removed 4-pin connector and terminal cap. Connected ohm meter.
- checked primary A to secondary tower terminal - OK ohmage within range.
- checked primaries A to C - OK (actually shorted 0.0 ohms)
- checked secondaries B to D - OK ohmage within range
- replaced connector and terminal cap.

- Rotor:
- removed dist. cap. removed rotor.
- had to pry hard, causing some damage to plastic, but still functional.
- no worn out looking pieces and no cracked pieces
- edge terminal looked a little darkened, but good enough to work well
- shiny metal ridges of the terminal were visible

- Igniter (or ignition control module (ICM) inside distributor):
- did not remove wires
- was able to put voltmeter probes on small exposed part of terminals
- turned ignition on.
- black/yellow saw battery voltage
- wire closest to front of car saw battery voltage
- wire closest to firewall saw about 1 volt less than battery voltage.
- book says replace ICM if voltages are OK, but not so fast ($80 if wrong)

- Self diagnostic:
- accessed the self diagnostic connector under dash far right.
- Shorted the connector with paper clip
- turned ignition to ON, but CHECK engine light on dash stayed on solid
- no diagnostic blinking occurred, but got a 1-2 blinking on the ABS light.


Buttoned everything back up.
Can anyone think of anything to try before punting (dealer)?