^^ Thats a shot of the Wedge at Newport beach. Ive bodyboarded big days just like the one pictured. I ate it there once on a 8-12ft day. Thats hella tons of water slamming you into the sand. Its a well known shorebreak spot that goes off during NW swells.
My local break gets up to 10ft in winter. Theres a rock reef about 3ft below the water. 1ft on really low tides/ :nervous: