Originally Posted by sleepersol
With the b20 you also have to worry about the rods. The b20 rods are built to drive the CRV at lower rpms. When you put the b16 or b18 head on there and run it up to 7,8,or 9K things have a tendency to snap. Plus adding on the turbo you are just asking for trouble. I know of a number of b20 swaps and none of them made it more than 20K without throwing a rod. B18c1's are nice with a turbo but I think that the b18a and/or b18b has a lower compression ratio which is better for a turbo
Originally Posted by b16aEGcivic
b20 AEBS sleeved, pauter rods, ross pistons, o-ringed, Hondata or AEM EMS, t3/04 hybrid turbo, turbo manifold, 3 inch down pipe with 3 inch back, oil lines/coolant lines, BOV, external wastegate, greddy profec B original boost controller, DSM injectors with resistor box, or RC injectors, front mount intercooler, intercooler piping.
Originally Posted by Maiku
Key word... B18. O.o; I didn't do any research on a B20. I'm sure it's a lot more expensive and a lot harder to find, right? Plus the swap probably isn't as easy as a bolt and go.
Originally Posted by 1jz gte_ jza70
The only problem with the b20 franken swap that i have heard about is if you advance the cams too far pistons will contact the head. Nt sure if thats true or not. Id stick to the b18c1
A: the b20 and b18 is the exact same motor with the exception of bore.
B: nobody ever said anything about it being a b20/vtec swap
C: the B20 swap is the exact same swap as the b18
D: please learn to read before you start throwing up the "I heard from a friend who had a dog that knew a guy who spun a bearing at 20k" stories.
E: most of the questions you are asking can be found by doing a simple search so I would recomend doing so.
F: if you want to do the b18c swap and looking for around 300whp talk to WestCoastStyle, he was pushing around 300 with Hondata and rods and pistons.